I remember when I first saw this photo in the mid-60's. It seemed so right. A board with no fin. A rider with no name. And a pretty neat level of fun/performance/excitement for it's era. Or any era. The moment captured probably only lasted a moment. But it foreshadowed the aspirations surfers the world over would soon embrace.
The current interest in Alaia boards is a leaf falling from the same branch of surfing's family tree. An ancient voice directing us out of the darkness. So cool this is all coming back.
Update: Bongoman (ever vigilant, ever true reader of this forum) has forwarded this link. The rider is Val Ching, and his Paipo did in fact sport a fin! Great footage.
Update II: Now that I've had time time ruminate, I'm thinking that maybe I first saw this photo in "The Complete Book Of Surfing."
Mat Max, who's father authored the aforementioned tome, could maybe look that up...
5 comments:
It's Val Ching at The Wall, Waikiki in 1963.
Video is here.
Wow, great footage...but my dreams (and premise) are blown sky high! He had a fin on the board, and he had a name!
Sorry to shatter the myth, but it's epic footage nonetheless.
It's incredible...not only for the content, but the interest (and foresight) to shoot it as well.
I love the shot of Val kicking and paddling into the wave near the beginning. That's how Reno Abillera paddled and caught waves with the tiny Brewer mini-gun he rode in '68...kicking and paddling the same time.
I forgive you bongoman...always good to get the straight story. This forum is really fun place to be!
See "Update II" on the OP...
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