Good surf on the Banks today. Freezing cold though. I was in boardshorts in early October, and today my hands went numb and i was cold in a hooded 6/4. I surfed for 3 hours in the morning, went to the dentist for a bit of oral surgery, and had another long session after I got out of the chair.
Waves had great texture and shape, good speed lines, makeable barrel sections. I'm getting more control over 3rd gear, partially by letting a lot of air out of the Fatty, and by lessening my pressure on the outside rail.
The afternoon session I surfed the Nags Head Pier with a small local crowd. It's an a-frame bowl with a short, pitching left into the pier and a longer right, but the right peeters out after 30 yards in a deep trench and reforms into the inside peeler. No one on a surfboard could make the "Huntington Hop" thru the trench to the hollow shore break lines. I ended up making this section on nearly all of my waves, legs up, letting the Fatty hover across the fishin' hole.
Here's the days pictures from Hatteras...as shot by Matt Lusk.