PG,
Good surf on the Banks today. Freezing cold though. I was in boardshorts in early October, and today my hands went numb and i was cold in a hooded 6/4. I surfed for 3 hours in the morning, went to the dentist for a bit of oral surgery, and had another long session after I got out of the chair.
Waves had great texture and shape, good speed lines, makeable barrel sections. I'm getting more control over 3rd gear, partially by letting a lot of air out of the Fatty, and by lessening my pressure on the outside rail.
The afternoon session I surfed the Nags Head Pier with a small local crowd. It's an a-frame bowl with a short, pitching left into the pier and a longer right, but the right peeters out after 30 yards in a deep trench and reforms into the inside peeler. No one on a surfboard could make the "Huntington Hop" thru the trench to the hollow shore break lines. I ended up making this section on nearly all of my waves, legs up, letting the Fatty hover across the fishin' hole.
Here's the days pictures from Hatteras...as shot by Matt Lusk.
Jamie M.
4 comments:
...and today, It's SNOWING!! It never snows here, and it really never sticks to the ground, but it is today...weird.
I miss the Outer Banks. Not the mosquitoes, but everything else. I've heard that driving on the beach has been severely restricted. True?
No, not entirely true. Only certain ORV ramps south of Oregon Inlet have been closed, and they only stay closed temporarily. The whole situation got blown way out of proportion. I can still access any wave i want to surf on any stretch of coast. Sometimes i just have to work for it a bit more...
and as for the skeeters...They don't like the snow either, so when the surf is firing and it's cold, the Banks are the place to be.
The first time I surfed the Outer Banks was in September, 1965, on a 9'10" longboard. No one in the water, no one on the beach, and 6'-8' stormy surf. It was kind of spooky for a California high school kid from Huntington Beach. I surfed there as much as I could for three years. Great times.
Tom T.
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