Photos by MAT MAX
Dec 24, 2008
Christmas Eve
Christmas Eve at 6pm. The wind had just swung around to offshore. I was waiting for my lift to a party, shaved and dressed, taking artsy photos to keep myself from completely bailing on social obligations to ride the best waves in months. Christmas day was blown out three foot mush. I reckon I deserve the medal of valor for staying ashore.
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3 comments:
Beautiful pictures and nice session!!!
Bleddy hell!You didn`t blow everything off and ride that?!Can`t believe it.Although being a mat rider tends to calm one down a bit...someone called the mat "a tranquiliser"recently,and I think that is so true.As a bodyboarder,I would be screaming and going for every wave like a fruitcake.On the mat,ego and sense of self dissipates.mainly because you let yourself go to the wishes of the mat and waves.Ahhhhh.
Yeah well I've got various surfboards, bodyboards and mats to choose from. Most likely I'll never get over not going surfing that evening! The things we do for our significant others. If only they actually understood. At least we got some picts for the blog.
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