Sep 16, 2009

"Like I was lifted up, riding the current of air..."

(From Magic Seaweed...)


Just wanted to shoot an message your way to say thank you for the insanely fun ride! M.C. just ordered a Classic mat from you (which she just yelled from the other room that it is such a gas to ride!) and since quivers in our house are promptly shared, I had to give it a go...

Rode it a few times here and there in some marginal surf and a couple times when a little beach peak looked good. Lots of laughs and some unexpectedly great rides for what was there.

Over this past weekend my favorite spot awakened and some really decent looking waves were rolling down the point. Over the 2-3 hours that I was out, I got a few waves in the crowd, got completely worked over being caught inside, lost the mat (only ended up a few feet away...saved it!)

But, I got this one wave. The smile has not gone away thinking of that ride. Just like it was described; locked in the high line and going so fast. The sensation is so unreal when thought hydroplaning? Like I was lifted up, riding the current of air, right in the pocket under the lip! I am hooked!!

Thank you again,



Surfsister said...

The world would be a nicer place if everyone rode a mat. I swear I can't stop smiling when I'm on one.

GRAYMAN said...

Yup. The rules change and the bullshit stops.