Oct 23, 2009
From Mr. Dirk...
A quick note to hyperventilate about the surf! It was stellar this morning -- glassy, consistent, growing, no crowd. Young Brian was there on his 4GF and we had a wonderful time trading notes and tips. I gave him a few positioning tips and he seemed to really improve. He's a very good water spirit already.
As I changed to leave, I watched him milk a really long one -- farther than any surfer could go -- and then we exchanged farewells as he walked back up the point. I told him that I was going to write to you and he said, "Tell him I'm pumped!"
Now I've got to work my buns off to catch up...probably won't get wet again until Monday.