Jan 29, 2009
An experienced canoe builder, Ogawara spent over 3 months gluing 7,382 chopsticks together into strips to form the canoe shell, to which he added a polyester resin coat. The canoe weighs about 30 kilograms (66 lbs), which is a bit heavier than an ordinary cedar canoe, but Ogawara is confident it will float. A launching ceremony is planned for May at nearby Lake Inawashiro."
Jan 27, 2009
Jan 25, 2009
Jan 23, 2009
Jan 22, 2009
Jan 18, 2009
Details are still sketchy, but it appears that the long and profitable run of Jarrett Adult Entertainment has come to an inglorious end. Local police, with the assistance of federal and international law enforcement agents, stormed the cushy O.C. digs of one Mr. J. Jarrett, and left many hours later with a collection of surf mat porn that one experienced officer said was, "The worst collection of aquatic filth I've seen since we busted the opening night screening of Rubber Duck Riders in Times Square back in 1970."
Jan 16, 2009
Jan 14, 2009
Had my first surf in the land of Oz this morning!
Burleigh was light offshore and peeling in sectiony lines at about 3-4 ft with some occasional longer period sets that were a foot or two overhead. The tide was medium and filling in fast, so the point wasn't in top form and not especially hollow. I had no trouble getting about 8 waves, wasn't even competitive. Some of the rides were pretty memorable simply for the speed gained from the drop and bottom turn, and clearing a few sections that I wasn't positive about. I didn't get a proper tube, but the waves were plenty steep and bowly.
I feel like the mat (I rode the Fatty) will perform very well once the points get faster and hollow. I was pretty tired after about 2 hours, long paddle, and I got caught inside the biggest set that came thru all morning. I hadn't had a surf since late November, so i really need to build up my sealegs again.
No pictures from this morning's sesh, as Tatum was taking the tour of campus and meeting with her advisers. The two pictures are from the day we got here. We hiked up the headland to look out over the top of the point, with Surfers Paradise (they weren't kidding) in the background. The forecast isn't looking great for the next few days, so I'm on a mission to find a bike and a good road map. Tatum and I are gonna check out Coolie tomorrow, maybe try to get a wave at the Bank before the winds change.
Jan 13, 2009
First Session on my new Mat
The surf at Pavillions (Ho'okipa) was 6 to 8 foot on the face a strong side shore wind blowing (as is often the case) a combination of East wind swell and North-West ground swell made for a lot of water moving during the sets. I inflated my mat until it wouldn't bend to 90 degrees, I was shooting for 45 degrees, I think I went a touch softer than that.
Paddling out was a bit of a surprise, I had expected flex but I hadn't expected twisting, it was actually a little tough to stay on. Luckily at Pavils there's a nice channel so it wasn't too hard to get most of the way out. However as a set closed out the channel I found duck diving what felt like a trash bag full of air was very difficult. I made very little progress until the set relented and I was outside.
It was very early and I was the first one out. I had held on pretty tight to my mat while battling the white water and as I sat outside and felt the howling wind I realized that was a good thing because if I let go I might never see my mat again! I had read about how difficult riding a mat is at first so I paddled into a decent sized right with some apprehension. Catching it was a little tricky but pushing down on the nose to arc over and in as I kicked did the trick and I was sliding in, and I do mean sliding I felt almost completely out of control on the steep drop, instinctively I griped harder which hardened up the mat, slowed me down, gave me control over my direction, so I made the wave and swung back left to the channel. I was surprised at how quickly the mat slowed down when the wave died down, this thing likes some juice.
I continued riding for an hour going both right and left. I found that by letting go of the mat and letting it run I could get some good speed. Taking off was the most challenging, late take offs were the easiest and a real rush at the speed with which they slid to the bottom, I would then harden the mat by griping and squeezing and I could change my trajectory. I wasn't really turning but I was going where I wanted to go, t did try to do more of a turn but didn't really accomplish too much.
At one point a bigger set caught me inside and I was scrambling for the corner of the left, I made it to the very top corner, about eight feet up on the vertical face and just as I thought I was going to make it the lip gave me a little tap and I was sliding side ways back down, I went with it and slid around almost instantaneously into the proper orientation and made the wave at speed no problem! However my session was not with out mishaps on one I was too late and went over with the lip, mindful of the wind and the very real possibility of loosing my new mat I death gripped it, boom in the white water, boing and out I popped riding the white water, interesting but I don't think my back would like that on a regular basis!
All in all a very good first session. Take offs and turns will take a lot of work, can't wait to see how it works in the tube! Found a good relaxing way to swim out when my back got sick of being on top, flipped over and swam out on my back like I do often when I body surf only I now I drag the mat behind me. Also had fun with my friends when the paddled out and asked, "what are you riding?" I told them a trash bag!
Jan 11, 2009
Anyway, we all paddled out . . . into some pretty sad high-tide-waves-backing-off-and-not-wanting-to-break conditions with what started out as an offshore breeze. Little did Prana know that I was watching him. Remember, I have a mat but before yesterday I'd never seen anyone on a mat. Wherever he was, I was watching. Even when I was watching for a wave I could take, I was watching him. I wasn't on a mat. I was on my longboard and that made it harder to watch as I was farther outside than he was. At some point, we were both lined up together. I saw Prana turn to go. I had a birds-eye view. He jumped on that wave, which had no shape, and did a beautiful bottom turn. It was a sight to behold. I'd finally seen a mat ridden up close. It's truly a sight to behold. And as I beheld him on that bottom turn, the next wave came and smacked me good. No leash. Board gone. Much laughter on my part.
Thanks, Prana. I know it was hardly a good day in the water, but you in particular made my day. I hope to get on my mat this week if the waves permit.
Jan 7, 2009
We had an epic reunion "down there" with all our old buds -- Pleskunas bros, Gene, Zigs (Rick Vorce) -- the only guy missing was Bulldog (Larry Duff)