Dec 30, 2009
I was visiting my folks in LA and found a great niche for matting. High tide inside Malibu is custom made for matting. Easy to keep riding in the barrel until all the water drains from the bottom! (By the way, the lifeguards didn't hassle me, maybe because it was winter?)
Photos by Rob Mitchell.
Dec 29, 2009
Dec 28, 2009
We all traveled down to Santa Cruz and spent most of the extended weekend there with my parents and brother Ira who's back from Germany (where he lives.)
(Also, here's Ira standing on the beach, with me body surfing in the background.)
We got some fun waves Thursday at Capitola beach, Friday at the Hook, and Saturday at Platforms (South Seacliff beach.)
My Mom and I rode mats on Saturday. I've gotten a chance to use mine 3 or 4 times now and have really been enjoying it. It's such an organic way to ride waves! I still haven't quite figured out how to punch it through a big, thick wall of white wash, but I'm sure that will come. :)
I've taken Vaughn out a couple of times and he's had a blast.(Mat newbie Vaughn having a blast.)
My Mom has been loving her mat, too. You just can't believe how jazzed she is about it:) She's so fired up that she was hoping to order another one or two so that she can go out with her friends. Robert here wants to get another one, too for his buddy Jeff Lyon, a bike frame builder/surfer.
How was your holiday? And have you had the chance to catch any of this recent swell? Vaughn bought me the "Inner Most Limits of Pure Fun" as an Xmas gift this year. We're stoked! Hi to Gloria! Milo is growing fast!
We haven't had much in the way of communication for days now. No phone, net, etc. Camped out in the traditional Maori grounds up north. The waves were probably better than what the photos show. Will send a full update when I'm sober and have time. Just got back to Mike's in Whangarei and have a computer to use.
Dec 26, 2009
I am SO STOKED mate! Rode my new mat this morning for the first time...far out it flies. The waves were rubbish but I got 6 waves and I am fully hooked.
Jamie from the Gold Coast AU came and stayed on Xmas day, and had a NZ kiwi style feed and a few ales. Great guy. He gave me a heap of tips, we are going to catch up on his return from up north for a photo session in the next few days.
Thank you so much for the mat, summer is going to be even better! I AM SO STOKED! Fizzing all over the place!
Dec 22, 2009
Had my first surf in NZ this morning at Manu Bay, Raglan. The wind finally let up a bit and there were a few lefts coming through. Stayed in the water about an hour, maybe a bit longer and had an enjoyable first surf, except for the temperature. Apparently, I've become a pussy on the Gold Coast because there were guys in boardshorts and I was shivering in my fullsuit.
The real adventure started after I got out of the water though. As I got back to the van Tatum informed me we had a flat tire. Apparently some locals decided to let the air out of my back tire while we slept. A generous local had a compressor in his van and pumped us up enough to get to town. We fixed the tire up and headed across the island towards the east coast. With just about a half-hour before we hit Mt. Maunganui, the campervan decided it had had just about enough driving for the day. We had just gotten up a mountain pass above Matamata and the thing overheated. (Yeah, I know. Everything we touch overheats...) We pulled over and watched all of the coolant blow out of the bottom of the van, then it smoked to it's death. We waited for the tow truck, got towed to Mt. M and are now hanging out in a motel waiting for our wheels to get fixed.
Dec 18, 2009
Dec 17, 2009
The photos were taken this Tuesday by Joel Mayer at Oceanside Pier during surf P.E. with Oceanside High School. Lissie is fifteen years young. She just started matting this summer. She also rides a longboard very well.
She charges when some other girls just sit pretty.
Peace, and again thanks for the mats!