(George Greenough in full flight on the 4GF Standard, Fall of 1985. He's barely leaving a track on the wave! )
I finally had the chance to take the Standard out today. We've had typhoons, typhoon remnants, and tropical storms the last two weeks and it's still big but today conditions were finally okay surfable (okay for a mat, that is).
It looked pretty small, but I guess I didn't check long enough. Once I got out, I realized it was over head high on some of the sets. Real messy conditions, a bit unpredictable, and there was a strong current, which is a bit unusual for this spot. The first wave I took off on, the first wave I caught on this new mat, was one of the biggest if not THE biggest wave I've caught. I pretty much just flew down the face and saw the wave closing out. It was one of those waves that you don't quite remember what happened because it was so in-the-moment. Mostly I was just a tad bit scared at the size.
Somehow I made it further down the beach. Surprisingly, it was breaking. I had never surfed that part of the beach and I didn't know that waves even break there. The waves were much more manageable here, only about chest high. I had some of the best rides! The mat felt great, really "solid" feeling for a mat (don't know how else to describe it - sure of itself?) yet responsive, and really fast, too! Surprisingly, the ride was pretty long, too. I LOVE this mat! Now I'm faced with the feeling of not having enough time to get a good feel for all of my mats! If only daily surf were a reality for me...
But those rides left me way stoked, and today was a new surf experience at my home break.
Thanks a lot.