Dec 31, 2010
All the best for 2011!
On our beach every newyearseve they make a big fire! It takes a week for those boys to build this! So it will not be cold tonight (haha).
It's 16:05 PM now. In less than 8 hours it's partytime overhere!!!!!
Look how big this fire is gonna be!
The next day!!!
Dec 29, 2010
Dec 25, 2010
Dec 22, 2010
Culturally speaking, the parallels between surfing and music are obvious...and never more so than when we observe the imbalance between art and commerce in each pursuit.
Patti Smith was on Tavis Smiley last evening. She was reflecting on the 70's, and -- as always -- dropped the hammer squarely on the head of the nail:
"We were moving into an era where I felt rock and roll was...being taken over by moguls and rich rock stars and the idea of celebrity. I wanted to help remind people that rock and roll was our cultural voice, that it belonged to the people, and we all
could animate that aspect of ourselves."
Here's the whole episode...
And, Patti Smith on Colbert, thanks to Dr. Robert...
Dec 20, 2010
Dec 17, 2010
Dropping a line to share a few pics from a session earlier this week at Todos Santos Island. Mostly rode stand up but grabbed the mat for a few sets.
I have a ways to go until I know how to handle the mat in this kind of surf but had a blast and managed to slide a few fun ones. End result was the the mat needing rescue from the inside rocks, but the rescue was a success with no damage to mat or rider.
Hope you're doing well!
Dec 15, 2010
Dec 12, 2010
Dec 9, 2010
Dec 7, 2010
Dec 6, 2010
Imagine my joy when I saw this shot from today's session. My last few sessions have seen me gain a better understanding of the mat and how I need to ride it. What made me dance a little jig about this photo was the fact that I'm banking into the turn. One rail is out while the other rail is being totally engaged. I've probably been doing that for awhile, but I didn't realize it. This, however, is my proof. What's even better is that my spouse told me, "You looked like you actually knew what you were doing out there."
You can see why I choose to ride the mat at this spot rather than a surfboard. There's so much kelp that riding a surfboard there is pointless. You can only safely go right. I'm a goofy foot, so I live to go left. The mat allows me the freedom to take whichever waves I choose, kelp or no kelp.
I was on the Tracker Square Tail in this shot. That mat works best for me in waves that tend to get mushy. When the wave is steeper and more powerful, I go back to the Standard. It holds better in a powerful wave. Then again, perhaps it doesn't. As I said, I'm still learning how to steer these things.
I may surf a board this week. Then again, I may not. I'm having way too much fun on my mats.
Dec 3, 2010
I have new words for mat riders...
"Matitation, and Matitating"
I began using these words to refer to mat riding recently.
The words are apropos to matting without effort, and this is just the way "TAO" matting is.
I want to write a book titled "ZEN and the art of not maintaining a MAT"
The acronym M.A.T. would be for Most Awesome Tracking and will be the theme of the book.
Long time not spoken. Hope everything is fine with you and the family.
Finally i can send you some Dutch mat pictures of me! The pictures were from one of the best conditions in Holland from 2010, late September.
I will place my order for the Vespa model in a few weeks. It's snowing over here now, and it's freezing...minus 7 degrees!