Mar 1, 2011
From the French Coastline...
Last week, I told you about a small right peeling against a harbour jetty wall.
Well, this morning the swell picked up again sending a few lines to this well sheltered area of my hometown bay. I had a nice two hour session with my Standard at mid-tide, when the wave starts close to the little lighthouse and builds a nice rippable wall with an occasional cover-up.
The wave is really easy to catch as it comes with a little foam ball against the wall that picks the rider way before the wave starts to roll...so you can position yourself on the right spot and wait for the little tube to build-up. Even when it's 1-2ft a Standard mat will handle it and glide effortlessly, thanks to the "push" created by the jetty's wall, you just have to do little snappy cutbacks to get in proper wave spot. Really fun with a mat!! I've "rediscovered it", lately...
The pictures were taken after my session, when the tide was too high, making the waves smaller and powerless. But it was small...waist high in the good sets (knee high in the pictures) and as the jetty is about 10 ft. high, it flattens even more the waves in these pictures...but sometimes, we do get it way bigger. "Jetty high," I'd say...so these puppies can get really scary!!!