Nov 11, 2011

Pulled From Daniel's "Sea Of My Mind" Blog...


didnt take this shot but its one of my favorite back yard spots. rode the standard mat all day today so much for the heal up. i can hear this spot breaking from my house a few blocks away when that sound hits me all bets are off everything is dropped. nice low tide pushing up and the first one out for about a hour about 5 foot on the sets and i rode the standard real floppy so it would bend all the way over unreal speed through the tunnels glides across the flats and of course many reef slams and mat fetching. i saw my surfboard on the rocks watching me play with my mat. i went in a got it and paddled out its been a long time and it felt strange and block like a few slides and missing tubes i would have made on my standard. the leash felt lame and the rides lacked that flying speed and glide i love so much about my surfmats. i used to love surfing so much how could this be. i went in an got my mat again and said good bye to my old love for now. maybe that way to ride has been mastered and the challenge is not there any more for me i guess only in really large surf it comes. but i find huge challenge in my mats and when i lock a wave skimming full speed in perfect trim the thrill comes back like when i was a kid learning to surf.

3 comments:

Ramsnake said...

Hooked! LOL!

misterdirk said...

It really does go back to the feeling. Once you start flying around on mats, the other rides don't seem to deliver the same good feel. Appearance, performance... all the other considerations seem to diminish. Just give me more of that flying feeling!

daniel said...

well said my mat gurus it all started for me by following all your posts and pics of the rides and talk of the slides. and hooked im sure i am. keep wet and ride it floppy!!!!!