No, it's not that it dispels the myth that black people can't swim or surf. Duh!! There's a mat in the picture. When was the last time you saw a mat at a surf event? Well, they saw one today at Rincon!
This event is surfed with teams. One of the ways to score points is to get as many people as you can on one wave. Since Rincon was firing, that was a bit sketchy. My goal was to stay behind folks so that I wouldn't get hit with a board when someone fell off. Well, there were a few close calls, but I came away unscathed and got the longest mat wave of my life. In fact, the wave you see pictured was the beginning of that wave. It just kept on going. When I turned around to kick back to the lineup, I couldn't believe how far away everyone was.
This was probably one of my top two mat sessions. Rincon is a perfect mat wave. (Photos: Ken Samuels)