Dirk and I were talking on the phone the other night, and he was commenting on how many hours we spend anticipating surf days, preparing our equipment, travelling to spots, etc, relative to how many minutes -- or even seconds -- we actually spend ride waves. The ratio is insane by any measure...other than that of a surfer.
Even the ratio of time-in-the-water compared to time-riding-waves seems nuts to most people. That said, time spent waiting for waves can be fun, especially on a mat. Bouncing around...feeling more of the swell and current and surface texture under us than on any other vehicle imaginable. No wonder we enjoy every moment!