Stoked! Full of joy! So happy!
Overcast Sunday morning. Glassy Little Dume. Paddle out at the gully, Jamie on longboard, me on my custom 4GF. Just the two of us. Float over the boil. First of four three foot sets. Kick, slide in front of foamy white water. Rip across the face, ride the section to the beach. Kick out to the boil. Take off, rip across the face, turn up and kick back out. Do it again. Heaven!
Jamie, of course, elegantly rode the crest of each perfect wave he caught.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, love, Sarah
1 comment:
That's Dame Judi Dench!
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