Jan 31, 2012

Surfmatters Contest Winner...



Well, it seems that many of our loyal readers took issue with Brigitte Bardot's current social and political perspective! Fair enough. Of course, a stint on an island with Ms. Bardot in her younger years would have given them a chance to broaden her horizons...and who knows what our brew master Gunther thinks about the world at large? What if he's further right than Atilla The Hun???

In any case, we've selected Pranaglider as the winner of the contest. Originality was clearly spelled out as a judging criteria, and he answered "Mary Ann" when she wasn't even an option!


20 bucks will go to Surf Sister in Pranaglider's name!

Jan 30, 2012

Day One: 4GF Prototype...


In the past, whenever we started working on an idea for a new 4GF model, I've resisted talking about it in Surfmatters early on, because, 9 times out of 10, the idea doesn't work out. And even if the concept shows promise -- like the Tracker Roundtail two summers ago -- it takes 6 months or more to sort out the details. So I've waited until a new mat was finished before unleashing it on the ever growing, ever voracious mat surfing world.

The great thing about designing air mats is we're always dealing with straight lines and concrete measurements. I can build a new version of a mat I rode yesterday, make it 1/8" thicker, and do it with almost perfect accuracy. And, I can have it out in the water tomorrow. Building surfboards generates so many variations in shaping and glassing that it's rare for any two boards to come out the same. And then there's the high cost and turn around time of making new boards, even if you own a shop. Surf mats, then, really lend themselves to a methodical developmental process.

The downside of mat design is that all the variations and fine tuning aren't visible to the eye. I've built nearly 3000 mats by hand over the past 25 plus years, but even I can't look at a mat and determine how it will ride just by its appearance. Mats are a lot like shoes. A small variation (like the difference between a size 9 1/2 and a size 10 shoe) makes all the difference in the world when you wear them, but you can't look at them on-line, or even in the shoe store, and judge them. You have to put them on. The same applies to a mat...you have to ride it to really know what it's capable of.

The single biggest thing I spend time on, when answering emails, is trying to convince board surfers they aren't qualified to make judgement of what a given mat model will ride like based on its appearance or dimensions. The variation in dimensions between two extreme mats (like a 4GF Standard compared to a 4GF XL) is minimal compared to the numbers that two widely contrasting surfboards might generate. If I published the dimensions of a Standard and an XL, it would seem implausible to most surfers that there would be any noticeable difference between how the two mats surfed. But anyone who's ridden both a Standard and an XL knows they are profoundly different.

So with all that in mind, I thought it might be interesting to document the progress of a new 4GF prototype mat from day-one.

I've been thinking about how great both the Standard and the 5GF are when it comes to hanging into walls, but also how much better every other design is when it comes to gliding and skimming. Obviously, we're all looking for the holy grail...a mat that combines both aspects.

I've made so many variations of so many mats, that sometimes I think there isn't much more earth to till. What I haven't spent much time working on is a mat with a tapered outline shape. In the past, I've resisted fooling around with mats that weren't straight and square for a litany of reasons.

One reason is aesthetic. Square mats are pretty much our history. And the emergence of the body board in the 70's, with it's tapered outline, presented an appearance paradigm that mat surfers didn't like.


There's no doubt that this outline works...but nothing like a surf mat. So it's an aesthetic strike-out, in my view.

A second reason I've stuck with conventional square mats is that a square mat reduces the number of design variables to sort through. Once you start to add curves and tapers, another, almost impenetrable jungle of design and testing presents itself.

The third, and most important, reason is that square mats really do work. In the late 40's, Bob Simmons' research into planing hulls led him to determined that wide tailed, parallel outlined boards were more efficient than pulled-in curvy ones. Of course, Simmons' boards weren't very maneuverable, but they absolutely flew in a straight line. Untouchable speed, even by today's standards.

(That's about a parallel as you can get!)

So, a conventional surf mat with its straight/parallel outline has a significant amount of data, and history, to back up its obviously high level of performance. Of course, the original surf mats were square out of manufacturing practicality. But, they worked back then, and they work now.

Manly Beach, 1930's


That said, the idea of a mat that isn't perfectly square goes back to the mid-1930's. One the earliest known photographs of a surf raft shows a mat with a tapered outline.


George made a tapered mat back in the 80's, but we didn't have much of a design backlog to rely on, and the squares ones were working well, so that first one got wet a few times, then set aside. Last night, in a flu-induced delirium, I decided to give the tapered outline mat idea another shot.

What I wanted to try was taking two proven design quantities -- the Fatty (my favorite small wave mat) and the 5GF (the best big wave mat, IMO) -- and literally combine them. The prototype I built this afternoon has the wide-ish nose of a Fatty, tapering down to the narrow tail of a 5GF.

My hope is the narrower tail will hold in, while the wider nose will give it more planing. I've kept the outline straight, rather than curving the outline inward at the tail, because outline curve has never worked for me in the past. It usually slips out.

     
                 Fatty...............Tapered Prototype.............5GF


I have to wait for some waves, and for my flu to subside, before I can try it out. I'll keep everyone posted.

Jan 29, 2012

A Surfmatters Contest For The Guys...

The legendary BBC Radio program "Desert Island Discs" turned 70 years old today!



The subject of desert islands brings up an interesting question:

If you're a pudgy, near-sighted mat geek...


...and you're stranded on an island with perfect surf...


...who would you rather be stuck with?


A guy named Gunther with an unlimited brewing capacity...


...or Brigitte Bardot (1960's era) and a surf mat?


Submit your answer in the Comments Section.

The winner will be chosen based on humor and originality...and I'm not going to lose any sleep if no one else agrees with my choice! The point is to generate some laughs, and give Surf Sister another 20 bucks. The winner gets bragging rights to the donation.

(And yes, that really is Brigitte Bardot on a surf mat!)

Quick 5GF Update

Paul,

Surfed the 5GF a bunch of times this weekend. there were bumpy, stormy wedges with a fair bit of punch to them and the 5GF handled it all with ease. Cutbacks were a breeze, and like I read on a previous ride report, the 5GF definitely feels like it has a fin attached. No sliding out no matter how hard I pushed it. Have found a good level of pressure, which is super low and what I am normally used to riding on other mats.

Can't wait to get it into some sizeable tubes, I think the thing will come into a whole other level in those sort of conditions.

Will get some photos happening soon.....

Evan

Jan 28, 2012

Tips From The Pros: Breaking Up The Pack!


Back in the early 70's, George and his Hodgman were out at Lennox Head on a pretty good day. A long lull let everyone filter back into position (no leashes yet, so that wasn't as easy or as common as it is today), and a good sized cluster of surfers was sitting on the peak towards the top of the point. After a few frustrating minutes, George decided that he'd had enough. He left the primary peak, and paddled up towards the top of the point.

"I really wanted to pick off a big one way out there!" George said at the time.

Paul Witzig was on the point shooting, and right on cue, the set George had summoned punched him square in the nose. I've never seen the footage of that ride, but this grab turned up in one of Nat Young's books back in the 80's. It's George, screaming across a wall, well outside the location where everyone else was sitting.

"That was the best wave I got out there that day," he recalled, "and everyone paddled up to where I was sitting when I caught it. By the time I paddled back, the main peak was almost empty. I broke up the pack with on an air mat!"

Jan 27, 2012

Chief Inspiration Officer




Ryan Levinson's story is here...it's well worth a look!

Latest 5GF Update


Hey Paul,

got the 5GF mat, mate!!

Was absolutely chomping at the bit to get out there this arv and can definitely feel the 5GF is a winner already. Felt really nice off the bottom on the bigger, bumpier sets at the Pass. Definitely feels like a mat for bigger, more powerful surf that's for sure.

Super keen to give it a run in some bigger stuff this coming week. Will keep you informed and thanks again!!!

cheers, Evan

---------------------------------------------------------------

I've had a couple of people ask about ordering a 5GF, even though it isn't a model on our home page yet. I've agreed to make a few, since the feedback so far has been good...and showing an understanding that the 5GF isn't an all around mat.

If you want to order one, go to our home page, order a Standard, and note you want a 5GF in the comments box.

We'll also donate 10 bucks for each 5GF ordered to surf sister.

PG

---------------------------------------------------------------

Jan 26, 2012

Surfmatter Triva Winner Followup


Piskian's guess that a Greenough family member was the driver of the yellow Mustang in the post below was essentially correct, since it was in fact George's mother Helen at the wheel. So, we've given his name to a $20 donation to Surf Sister's medical fund.




So, why are images of Jane Russell appearing in this post? Well, for one thing, why the hell not? The other reason would be that Jane Russell was Piskian's other answer in the prize winning post. And, it wasn't a bad guess either, as Ms. Russell did live in George's home town of Montecito for a number of years. So, all in all, very good entry by the P-Man.

Besides, I have my own surf-related anecdote relating to Jane Russell...

When I was in high school, and starting to glass surfboards in our family garage, there was a retired guy across the street named Monty. He often gave me pointers about board building. He'd been an art director at Howard Hughes' RKO Studios in the 40s and 50s, and had pioneered the use of fiberglass in creating sets for feature films. Monty also glassed boards for the people at RKO who surfed Malibu back then. They would buy unglassed balsa boards from shapers (including Bob Simmons!) then slip them onto the RKO lot under the cover of darkness, where Monty would lay them up on the QT. Pretty damn cool!

Cooler still...while Monty was at RKO, he worked with Jane Russell on a number of projects. He actually had a hand in making the famous undercarriage brazier that she wore in the film The Outlaw.  

Monty passed away in the mid-70's, while Ms. Russell died just this past year...and she was a resident of the Central Coast at the time.

Another Surfmatters trivia question coming up soon. Same deal...winner gets their name tagged to another donation to Surf Sister.

Jan 25, 2012

Yet Another 4GF Trivia Contest!!!



The first mat fanatic to guess the identity of the person driving the yellow Mustang convertible at :32 of this uber-beyond-cool Greenough video gets their name credited to another 20 bucks for Surf Sister! Humorous replies welcome, even encouraged...but we're after cold hard facts to determine a winner!

Jan 24, 2012

Surfmatter Contest Result...Sort Of


I don't know where to fall on judging the entries to this contest challenge. There are some good ones! And with a free T-shirt hanging the balance, that adds to the pressure.

Culturally, it's too late for me to hide behind any "I'm the decider" jokes. :(

I'm leaning towards Matt23's reply, with the idea of the bottom of the mat being a primitive blue screen. Then again, Mat Max was really in the groove when he speculated that George was signaling "bottoms up" to the crew on the beach. And Piskian, with his brevity, showed classic Brit-Wit.

And I can't decide of Grayman is brilliant or in need of some kind of therapy.

Anyway, what do you guys think? (And you can't vote for yourself!)

One option: How about we call it a draw, and 4GF donates double the cost of a T-shirt ($20 x 2 = $40) to Surf Sister? She busted her leg after the contest was announced...so that might be cool.

Daniel:  i would have to say it's the end of the shoot and he can't wait to dump that cam and get away alive from that guy on the surfboard that keeps ditching it at him. he doesnt care what side is up he wants to go in and go ride somewhere else with paul up or down the coast like after this film shoot.

AnonymousPiskian:  Blue movie? And he was shy of displaying his valve?

Pranaglider:  Certain "movie magic" involving post production techniques only know to the Marx brothers turn that footage into the intro for the original "Hawaii 5 oh" that we all know and love. Regarding riding the mat stripes down, a sudden oil slick produced by the hair products the male star was using so contaminated the local waters that fishing was ruined for years. George's mat took a direct hit due to his close proximity. The deck was covered. George flipped the mat over for the ride to shore attempting to prevent further transfer to his wetsuit. P.S. as it turned out both the wetsuit and his mat were completely ruined and had to be written off. Sadly the film company didn't reimburse George for the wetsuit or the mat causing George and friends to look into making mats for themselves. Yes nasty Hollywood hair products are directly responsible for the surfmats we ride today. True story.

KP:  The Striped pattern on the Hogmans bottom is a shark repellant GG was way ahead of his time on this subject and was a setting duck with that camara gear at a well known shark hangout. First guess , The light on the dark bottom didn't reflect the light from the morning sun, second guess. I would keep going but I have to go to work, when I just typed that, have to go to work I thought of Manard G. Crebs one GG's hero's.

KA:  Converse/Hodgman pulled the plug on George's three figure mat riding endorsement deal, so in protest, he flipped his mat over to make it look like he wasn't riding a Hodgman anymore?

Grayman:  These days he needs to clad himself in rubber and rub up against moist bottom to shoot?

AnonymousMark:  1. we all now how actors like bright and shiny things and Mr. Greenough's mat being the brightest thing out there, he opted not to distract the "talent".  2. He was tired of getting smacked by the valve, dodging the "talent" and carrying the extra weight of the camera.

AnonymousMat Max:  George was getting thirsty and signaled "bottoms up" to crew on the beach in order to have a beverage waiting there for him.

Matt23:  Halfway through shooting Bruce O'Dube (scriptwriter) the guy in the shirt with a buterfly on the elbow changed the plot! George would play an intergalactic FBI agent hot on the trail of the main evil character. Later FX were added to show Georges camera as a high powered laser cannon. The main reason for the mat flip was to help aid an early version of 'blue screen'. Unfortunatley the film never saw public release as Carrington Sheen (Charlies grand father!) bought the rights and kept in under lock and key!

Surfempty:  He'd become distracted by some excellent flange?

AnonymousMat Max:  ...Well you see, George was getting fed up with Hollywood and California and the US is general, right? So, as a symbolic gesture of protest (it was the late sixties Vietnam era), he flipped his mat upside down to voice his opinion that he longed to go back "down under" in Australia...

Jan 23, 2012

Charlie Sheen Fires Back!!!

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Surfmatters recently covered the growing controversy of drug testing for mat meets...specifically in the "Premier League Of Mat Riding," otherwise known as the UKMS. It didn't take long for Malibu's own Charlie Sheen to bounce back with his thoughts on two subjects near and dear to his heart: Mat surfing and drugs. And alcohol. And women. (It's all kind of a blur with him.)

"Hi Guys,

Charlie here. Thought I'd get back to you on the UKMS drug testing thing. You probably think I'm all "pro-drugs, anti-testing," and in the past that would have been one of those awesome "torpedo of truth" kinds of deals. But the other night I made it with my first brunette -- well, two of 'em actually -- and it turned my head around...pun intended!

I see now where you can go both ways -- blond and brunette -- and have a great time. So, I'm willing to look at drugs and the testing thing in a whole new light!

My issues with intoxicants and mat surfing really started back in the 80's, when I scored an endorsement deal with Budweiser to ride a mat with their logo. All I could think about when I was out in the water was getting back to my beach pad and cracking a cold one. Pretty soon, I just parked my mat in the corner of my living room and spent my days drinking beer and staring at that damn raft.

I was so out of it that I dragged my 4GF with me when we shot Platoon. I did a few improv scenes on the beach with the mat, but that no-talent hack Ollie Stone edited them out, claiming they weren't "historically accurate." Like that's ever stopped him before!

The big collapse, for me, was when I visited England and hooked up with with Grayman and a couple of his UKMS staff assistants. They were really into PEDs to torque-up their mat surfing, and I was so innocent, I didn't even know what PED meant!  Before long, I was slamming 'roids and EPO like they were cheese puffs and Mr. Pipp...and absolutely ripping. (That G-man sure had a wry smile all the time. I shoulda asked him why.)

I hit rock bottom when I got back to the States. Without easy access to "the juice," as they called it in the UK, I was turning back into a kook in the water. Out of desperation, I chug-a-lugged a quart of lemon juice.

It took a month for my face to straighten out, and in that time I realized that I had to get the rest of me straight as well. I hired a medical staff to test me before every go out. The video crew was there to document the process for Mr. Dirk's upcoming film, "The Once And Future Kook: The Rise and Fall Of Charlie Sheen's Mat Career."

I put up the jack to shoot the film...but Dirk blew most of it on sunglasses and a new hat. (My people are looking into it.)

At first being tested all the time was a drag, but I got to the point where I actually looked forward to giving a sample...just to prove to the world that I could surf sober! Or, nearly sober.

So that's where I'm at these days. Clean, mostly sober, and stoked! I even give 4GF T's to all my romantic conquests...PG sells them to me in lots of a thousand!

Regards,

Charlie"


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Co-Operative Fun!



This was pinched from Lloyd's Blog. It's well worth a daily click!

Should There Be Drug Testing For UK Mat Meets???



As UKMS mat meets grow in popularity, grand prizes have blossomed from small inflatable trophies to, well, slightly larger inflatable trophies! It naturally follows that the temptation is overwhelming for mat riders to cheat in hopes of giving themselves a competitive edge. And, with no drug testing program in place, what's to stop competitors from turning to PEDs in hopes of a coveted podium finish?

The governing body of the UK Mat Meets isn't inclined to deal with anything that doesn't involve a quick pint of bitter...but now these wallys have to face Sporting's Big Question: Should there be drug testing for competitors?

I interviewed a shadowy source deep within the bowels of UKMS Headquarters, known to the public only as "G," and he pretty much parroted the UKMS party line on drug testing. "If we screen for PEDs, and the majority our participants get red carded, what do we say to a worldwide TV audience of a half billion people? 'Sorry lads, we're shutting down UK Mat Meet #17. You'll just have to switch over to the World Cup Finals instead.'   Imagine their disappointment!"

Spoken like a true mat geek!

Probing deeper, I asked "G" point blank, "What about testing for recreational drugs?"

"Should we test for those too...and eliminate 99% of the UK's mat surfing population from the meets?" he shot back rhetorically. "Crikey, no!!!"

The bottom line, it seems, is that big money and bigger egos are at the root of the resistance to drug testing in the UK mat surfing world. So, what's your take on this hot button issue? Should they initiate drug testing for UKMS Mat Meets? Sound off with your opinion in the comments section!

Jan 22, 2012

Early 5GF Feedback

Jamie is taking his 5GF to Puerto Rico in a few weeks, but got some waves in cold (48 degree) water this past week.

Here are two shots from the day he surfed it...plenty of juice!



And here's what he said about the 5GF...

"The 5GF Test Track, day one. It was a fairly short session. Too cold and I had other stuff going on. There will be plenty of marathon session time in PR if the ocean cooperates. I did get a couple crazy deep views and snuck out of a good one. The 5GF has face-hold in steep situations that no other mat can touch."

A Pendo For Archbishop Tutu



Steve and Cher Pendarvis were commissioned to create a board for Archbishop Desmond Tutu's 80th birthday. Details of the amazing experience are here.

Jan 21, 2012

From Kendog...



PG

We should do a mat one!

Kendog

(Use comments sections for ideas on "Shit Mat Surfers Say.")