Jun 29, 2013
Jun 27, 2013
Jun 26, 2013
A couple of months ago, I had a dream I was on my surf mat that my brother gave me as a birthday gift last year. In the dream, I only caught one wave, but it shaped up to be an awesome 4-5 foot LEFT! There were people all around in the water, but I cruised by them—no problem. I felt perfectly in control. So I lifted my chest forward & threw my arms back in the air. It was about as close to flying as I could have been!!!
The dream stuck in my head for a while and I even doodled it right after the dream. I just made this block print of it and am pretty pumped on it. I was making some prints & frames from some old wood I had, so I figured I’d share the stoke that the surf Mat has given me in dreams and in reality.
Jun 20, 2013
Costa Rica surf trip .. had great time riding mats in 4-8' with real long rides with lots of face time at this reef / point break. We only encountered one other surfer in the water the entire trip. Rendezvoused there with Paipo and Alaia riders I know from http://mypaipoboards.org/.
Mostly rode the Omni which is noticeably faster then older mats and I made leaps and bound progress in my ability to go where I wanted on the wave. All of the sudden things really clicked. I rode with a complete fold in the mat. That slither to the front thing is one key element. I could take off on anything and find my way to a pleasant ride, glide through slow spots and position for face time. I would let the wave throw me, hang on, then get in control. I could even stall with some slide slip and then cut in when ready. Real fun!
I missed my queue to try the Standard on the biggest day so can not compare it to the Omni .. I was thinking the Standard might be the right ride for OH+. Next time.
I made some progress in getting out through some dumpers. Seems I did a perfect 720 cartwheel. I found that as I duck dived I could flip to my back and hold the mat up so it would catch less force. I put the death grip on the front edge of the mat with both hands. I also let the air out the mat when I got caught inside a couple times and then filled up when out again. Of course I went lateral to deeper water when I could vs hitting head on but I was a bit slow to get that wisdom. Otherwise, you could get pushed back 100+ yards into lava rock in a second. I did take a break one session and rode a paipo which dives much much easier but then returned to mat and made real progress. At one point I thought I might have to use paipo boards when it got bigger as a go-to ride but then came back to just thinking its more skill that is required.
In short, I had a great, fun time, made progress in my skill and got to hang with some really great guys.
Life is good,
Jun 16, 2013
(Photos: Dave Brown)
We took a big group of autistic kids surfing this morning. Some real runners and wrigglers. They all calmed down in the water and we got some nice sleeper south swell pulses.
I hope to go for a father's day surf.
All my best to you-
Jun 14, 2013
Special thanks to Nate K for the link to a nice historical piece on the Greenough family of Montecito, California.
The article is here...
Nate spotted the link on My Paipos Forum...
Also, I came across this page a while back. It's an article about the yacht owned by the Greenough's during George's childhood, the Marmetta. "Marmetta" is the name of the surf spot out at the Santa Barbara Channel Islands, which is often (wrongly) called "Mar Meadow." Obviously, the spot got it's name because George spent so much time anchored there in that vessel.
Jun 12, 2013
Here are some photos from last week's surf trip, which coincided nicely with some quite surfable surf. After battling the crowds at well known spots for 2 days, we shifted gears and sought more sheltered breaks and hunted for those mythical breaks that only awaken during these mega swells.
This empty right (which was not a set wave!) was a few miles away from where our photos were taken during mat session #2.
The new Fatty is a great addition to the mat quiver and made a convert of my brother (in hood), who stopped resisting my mat proselytizing after this exact left. The rough sequence of me (in hat) going left was the longest ride that session; it ended when I washed up onto sand.
Just wanted to send you these as a way to say thanks for the new mat and, as always, the top notch customer service.
Jun 4, 2013
Jun 3, 2013
Recent comments re: Captain David and Bretto inspired me to contribute.
The divorce is now finalised. Madamme Thruster and I have officially parted ways. Few tears were shed. Our shared assets, consisting of 4 high performance thrusters have been liquidated on Ebay (seen in the photo above, mostly unridden since purchasing my first mat a year ago). As you predicted, this resulted in net loose change even with the purchase of a mat quiver. This must be one of the few occasions where divorce has been profitable.
Madamme Thruster and I just weren't suited to each other. She demanded perfect waves to make her happy, and she didn't enjoy my less than perfect local breaks. Well occasionally she did, but the breaks in between were long and unsatisfying for us both. She needed a man with deep pockets to fly her to remote and exotic locations, to keep her really happy.
Madam Mat has been a much more compatible partner. She's always happy to hang out at my local breaks. She's always happy to mould herself to make the most of the current circumstances, rather than demanding the circumstances change to match her wants, as per Madamme Thruster. The future looks bright.