Mar 26, 2014

Another Indo Update, This Time From Neil ...

Hi Paul,

Was over in Bali over the weekend and unfortunately didn't hit the swell as Bretto has. Here's a photo of barely breaking Uluwatu.  Ignore me and just look at the faces of the surfers behind.  I always love the "what the hell was that?" look  that people give me when I get the wave that they didn't. This is on my Standard.

Neil H.


Tom Threinen said...

This is such a classic mat surfing experience! I dug back into the Surfmatters archive to find my post recounting a wave I rode in Portugal in 2010: "One wave I caught was a thick bumpy double-up. I started out riding the top of the wave, gliding effortlessly while looking for an opening into the lower, bowly part of this double-up. I found it, pushed the mat over the edge and free fell into a bottom turn. When I looked down the line I saw a kid just on the other side of the bowl paddling for the wave, but watching me. He paused as if uncertain as I aimed right at him, then pulled out letting me have the wave. I rode it all the way into the cove. When I got back to the outside he had a gigantic grin on his face. "Looks like FUN!" he said, and asked me what I was riding! He spoke enough English for me to tell him about surf mats. This young Portuguese surfer had never even heard of mats, but he was really stoked about what he had seen. I was smiling too."

Tom T.

Anonymous said...

It was small where I was too last weekend. Ulus on a mat is rad at any size. The crowds are one thing, but if you let go of your mat there it would be a major accomplishment just to get it back. Well done!