Ace, that's the feeling, you captured it! 50 yrs of surfing and I get the "This must be a kook" look. My friend on a board overheard "At least he won't get hurt by it." while out at a "rock-y" place which I've surfed for 30+ years. Makes me smile!
I definitely get that, "What a kook," look from the occasional aggro shortboarder in here NZ. (I realize that I'm wasting waves in terms of doing gnarly tricks and deserve to get cut off.) And most kiwis just pretend not to notice me. On the other hand, across the Tasman on the east coast of Oz, I've been shown acceptance and even generosity almost everywhere nearly every time, even out at the tip of Snapper Rocks! Another lot who dig surfmats have been true local Hawaiians, who smile and laugh, stoked on seeing someone just having fun with no pretense. I suppose that matting is a good indicator of the character of the characters in the lineup... Max
ACE- got mine because of your stoke.been a BLAST!have been getting so many waves!and as it can't be said enough...THANKS PAUL!!!
"What's with the black trash bag?" Middle of my latest session featured two dropins back to back followed by a thrashing wipe out.....still one of the best days of the year.
All I get are smiles and amused looks. Wait. Are they laughing AT me?
Post a Comment