Feb 20, 2015

From Colin ...

Hey Paul, hope all is well.

I had a go-out during the big west swell that peaked on Feb 9th.  The swell was around 12' at 14sec, straight west.  My plan was to sit at middles, but because of the sets hitting the top, the regular take off spot was basically a giant rip.  I sat way on the outside, and was able to take a set wave all the way past the staircase. 

I have no shots of myself from that day, but here is a cell-phone shot I took of the conditions after I got out.

The wave was probably 6' on the take off.  The winds had been shifting all morning, so there was a bit of a bump on the face, which was fun to deal with.
The most technical part of the wave was navigating through the middle, which was turned into a turbid river due to the rip.  Luckily, the wave I was on was a set, so everyone sitting on the inside was caught in the white water, and I didn't have to navigate through the circus. The wave lined up perfectly and ran for what seemed like forever.
This is how the waves shaped up as they hit the very inside.  As you can see, they lined up and ran all the way through. 
At the end of the wave I had to walk up the beach about 50 yards to the parking lot stairs, and walk up and around. 
I wasn't sure how far the wave was, so looked it up on google maps...650 yards! The longest wave of my life.
Loving the Lotus.

1 comment:

misterdirk said...

Woot! I've gotten some of those myself! They put a smile on your face that you'll never forget : )