A few days ago, our own Mister Dirk talked "Mr. Rincon" himself, Aaron...
...into rambling up the coast for a quickee surf just before dark. Dirk's currently in dry dock with an injured left pinky, so he set up to shoot some video...
This is an interesting ride...
Aaron is riding a Lotus 7, which seems like a good choice for a swell with a little grunt. But this break, which is mostly sand inside a small headland, has a weird warble going through it, even when it's offshore and super clean. It's really hard to set an edge with a mat. Which, as I alluded to, makes the Lotus seem like a good choice. But this wave is also very flat between sections, so a wider mat is better suited to arc across the dead spots. No matter what model mat you ride, there's always a degree of compromise at this spot.
Aaron does a good job of staying with it as the wave weakens between sections. Also notice how the Lotus wants to pull into the building section at :31, for just a moment, before he straightens off as it closes out.
Another highlight of this clip is the textbook "paddling-out-turning-around-and-slipping-into-the-wave" tutorial displayed by Aaron.
Dirk's personal recollection:
It was stormy all day but the skies finally cleared. We got there late, only
time for a few clips before sunset. I lost Aaron in the crowd when he paddled
off to the top of the point. By the time I found him again, he was chasing the
elusive connection from the outer point to the inner. No one actually made it
that day, but on one wave he came the closest to it.