Oct 9, 2015

From Aaron ...

Hi Paul,

Haven't seen much surf up this way all summer.

Today the swell picked up. I went to north reef and it was going off. I pulled up during a set that must have had 100 waves in it. The reef was doing its thing with waves breaking all the way to the sand. I made 2 phone calls and suited up, with waves coming in non stop.  I walked down the trail and out on the sand while watching countless waves coming in. I put on my suit and inflated my mat, then entered the water with the same set of waves still pouring in. I got clobbered in the beach pound but finally punched through. Waves were still coming in as I made my way to the outside. I got closer and closer to the takeoff zone and all I could see was waves stacked to eternity.

As I was just about to the lineup spot I had to go over one more wave, then I would be in position to flip around and go on the next one. To my surprise, the set ended and there was no next one. No problem, I will catch my breath and get ready for the next set.

Well, I sat for 2 hours and nothing came in. It was as flat as a lake. I eventually ran out of time and paddled in. Oh well!


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