Chris got a couple of pics this weekend before he joined me as the Maria swell started to show herself on our breaks! On shore winds, but that didn't stop us from flying!
I surfed some of the biggest wave of my life yesterday on the Standard. Chris was with me and we both surfed Standards. I caught a very large set wave outside in sloppy choppy conditions and set a high line almost as soon as I released off the lip! I don't know what gear I was in but I've never felt Speed like that before! She the mat for this mission! Three waves, all bombs, but the last one was a monster! I don't know how big she was exactly but it felt like I sliding down the side of a building! We almost didn't paddle out because we watched a couple of surfers get denied for 30 minutes, but damn am I glad we did! Chris caught three as well, and we paddled in shot out with adrenaline, and pumped for the day!
I plan on taking Tuesday off work with Chris this week to chase Maria swell on home turf! Man these mat changed my life! Thank you so much! Keep Spreading the Stoke! Lots of Positive Vibes and Healing Energy coming your way!