I had John Adkins
write to me, he is coming back for a visit again and bringing mats with
him as well as kneeboards, should be here in a months time, so just in
time for the true cold winter swells to arrive.
meant to slip this edit to you last post, its from the morning that
Neal filmed , you can really see how hard his crap hips have affected
him just walking, but he is all good and in recovery from having 2 new
hip joints installed, he sounded in good spirits when I spoke to him
this morning, a week at rehab, then back home to recover...we will have
our own camera man for a few weeks till he is back in.
was our last together before his operation, this break is called the
Bogey Hole, such a fun quirky right hander, when its really big you can
take off from around the point ( it called Kamakazi's) with a big bowl
section before wrapping back into the bogey hole . Its so much fun on
mats and the trick is to take off right next to the wall, ride the foam
wall, then pull into the bowl section over the rock ledge and then onto
the reform which takes you onto the beach.
love my kneeboards but have been rocking on these little soft top
boards, so much flex in them, riding boards 4'6" you learn rail control
is totally different to surfing a standard fibreglass kneeboard...this
was our 2nd surf after riding mats most of the morning.
Hit the beach, pool, or lake with a hot body--no matter what shape
you're in! Heavy-duty vinyl pool float looks like the hottest gal
above water, and features 2 handles and an ample "bosom" for you to
comfortably rest your head.
Approx. 72" x 35" with reinforced edges.
- Hit the beach, pool, or lake with a hot body--no matter what shape
- Heavy-duty vinyl pool float looks like the hottest gal above water
- Features 2 handles and ample "bosom" for you
to comfortably rest your head.
- Made with REALPRINT technology.
- Approx. 72" x 35" with reinforced edges.
Its been awhile since I last wrote, so hope all is well at your end of the world.
have had plenty of swell and waves of late, but the other weekend was
more special as we were able to score this reef to ourselves for a
couple of hours before being joined my a fellow surfer.
is due for his double hip replacement this Thursday, so with him finding
it harder on the mobility scale, he decided to film instead of surf ,
which is much appreciated and I think he did a great job as well.
also was trying out a couple of new camera mounts ( attached to ankle
& forearm ) lucky as I broke my main helmet camera mount , duck
diving a wave, so was able to quickly switch whilst in the water and
continue to join in the fun.
You can see the difference
between the ' width ' of our mats, I was riding my Lotus, while both
Paul and Phil were on their Omnis , the hand placements are a give a
way, but Phil did mentioned to me a few weeks back that his arms did not
touch his mat whilst paddling the Lotus, where as the Omni was a wider
mat and his arms were rubbing the sides.
I went back the following Sunday and surfed solo, such a eerie morning with the fog.
Anyways, life is still good down here in our little part of the world!
I saw a couple YouTube videos of people using surf mats, which I had
never heard of before. We go to the beach at Navarre on the Florida
gulf coast and we were there this weekend after the tropical storm - I
bought some cheap ($10) Intex rafts hoping to recreate the surf mat idea
and even tho the waves were very small I was shocked that the kids and I
were riding waves in way better than we ever do on buggy boards.
These waves are very small and they break very close to the sandy
beach so I don’t think there is time for turns or tricks - it is
basically ride it 40-50ft onto the beach. I wanted to ask you if we
bought a real surf mat would we experience something a lot different
knowing the limitations of our waves? Just wanted to pick your brain -
Some months back, San Diego's Jim Cahill brought up an interesting way to describe matting...he characterized it as "fretless surfing."
Not being a stand up bass player, or a violinist, I can only surmise what the freedom tinged with challenge playing a fretless string instrument would be like. And yet, I instantly related to mat surfing in those terms.
The most obvious analogy to a fretless instrument would be a "finless" surfcraft, which of course would include matting. But there's something deeper to this idea as it pertains to mats, which I can't really put my finger on.
Additionally, mat surfing is devoid of the ''fret'' associated with conventional surfing, in terms of competing for "good" waves in a crowd. So it works on that level to.
I wish I had more to say, but I don't. Please share your thoughts in the comment section, and maybe we can round out this concept.
A carefully recorded track of air being released from a surfmat has been circulating on the World Wide Web!
Some mat riders -- just under 50% -- hear the word "Standard.''
Another 49.99% hear "Omni.''
According to leading psychologists, the breakdown seems to fall along personality lines...
The Standard people are outgoing, gregarious, and anxious to connect with others in a positive and caring way. They are intelligent, humorous, and full of good will.
The Omni people are somewhat more withdrawn, but will answer the call of others when needed, and are selfless in their concern for the well being of plants, animals and people. And, like the Standard folks, they radiate warmth and intelligence.
Most likely, you fit one of those two categories.
The remaining 1/10 of 1% hear the word "Vespa." This is the troubled sector of humanity, for whom help is of little value...be it either personal counseling or pharmaceutical in nature. As we speak, these dregs of society are being rounded up by totalitarian tech firms and shipped off to "readjustment camps." If you fall in this rare category -- thankfully, the odds against that are roughly 1000 to 1 -- you're advised to seek shelter immediately.
The SW swell was pumping yesterday. I
filmed a few of the boys on their mats and wanted to show you the waves I
matted yesterday on the Lotus SS. The wave of the day is Drain Pipe,
it’s fickle but insane when it breaks. The mats was perfect for the end
section where speed is needed and having a soft mat pays off if you
don’t make it. Enjoy the short video!
Women figured prominently in the first-gen wetsuit advertising paradigm. It's obvious that the depicted ''divers'' are models in wetsuits -- as opposed to real sea creatures in their natural habitat, like these three...