Jun 15, 2018

From Rob

 
 
Paul,

Summer is here!
 
Thank you so much for all you do!
 
Positive Vibes and Healing Energy! Much Love from Florida!

Super Stoked,
Rob

Jun 13, 2018

Our Relationship With Water


This is a long read, and in no way surfing-oriented...but any surfer can relate on a visceral level.

And, a hopeful project to help rid the ocean of plastic...






  

Jun 11, 2018

From Adam

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Howdy Paul

I had John Adkins write to me, he is coming back for a visit again and bringing mats with him as well as kneeboards, should be here in a months time, so just in time for the true cold winter swells to arrive. 

I meant to slip this edit to you last post, its from the morning that Neal filmed , you can really see how hard his crap hips have affected him just walking, but he is all good and in recovery from having 2 new hip joints installed, he sounded in good spirits when I spoke to him this morning, a week at rehab, then back home to recover...we will have our own camera man for a few weeks till he is back in.



This was our last together before his operation, this break is called the Bogey Hole, such a fun quirky right hander, when its really big you can take off from around the point ( it called Kamakazi's)  with a big bowl section before wrapping back into the bogey hole . Its so much fun on mats and the trick is to take off right next to the wall, ride the foam wall, then pull into the bowl section over the rock ledge and then onto the reform which takes you onto the beach.



I love my kneeboards but have been rocking on these little soft top boards, so much flex in them, riding boards 4'6" you learn rail control is totally different to surfing a standard fibreglass kneeboard...this was our 2nd surf after riding mats most of the morning.



adam

From John



Hot Bod Beach Babe Pool Float.

Hit the beach, pool, or lake with a hot body--no matter what shape you're in! Heavy-duty vinyl pool float looks like the hottest gal above water, and features 2 handles and an ample "bosom" for you to comfortably rest your head. 

Approx. 72" x 35" with reinforced edges.

- Hit the beach, pool, or lake with a hot body--no matter what shape you're in!
- Heavy-duty vinyl pool float looks like the hottest gal above water
- Features 2 handles and ample "bosom" for you to comfortably rest your head.
- Made with REALPRINT technology.
- Approx. 72" x 35" with reinforced edges.

Strip And Dip World Record

Details (but not too many details) on the successful cancer fund raiser are here ... well done, lasses!

From Adam



Jun 8, 2018

From Adam

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Howdy Paul

Its been awhile since I last wrote, so hope all is well at your end of the world.

We have had plenty of swell and waves of late, but the other weekend was more special as we were able to score this reef to ourselves for a couple of hours before being joined my a fellow surfer.

Neal is due for his double hip replacement this Thursday, so with him finding it harder on the mobility scale, he decided to film instead of surf , which is much appreciated and I think he did a great job as well.

I also was trying out a couple of new camera mounts ( attached to ankle & forearm ) lucky as I broke my main helmet camera mount , duck diving a wave, so was able to quickly switch whilst in the water and continue to join in the fun.

You can see the difference between the ' width ' of our mats, I was riding my Lotus, while both Paul and Phil were on their Omnis , the hand placements are a give a way, but Phil did mentioned to me a few weeks back that his arms did not touch his mat whilst paddling the Lotus, where as the Omni was a wider mat and his arms were rubbing the sides.





I went back the following Sunday and surfed solo, such a eerie morning with the fog.




Anyways, life is still good down here in our little part of the world!

Adam

Jun 6, 2018

From Mister Dirk

Hi Paul,

You probably know that Adam Williams is a kneeboard legend down there, before he took to the mat. I’m in a kneeboard group on FB and pictures of him are off the chart sometimes.

Dirk

From JJ Of The OC



Hello Paul,

What a surprise I got this past weekend!

I took Gayle and Ivy to the new Surfing Heritage Museum in San Clemente.

There was an opening night exhibition honoring women surfers...specifically Joyce Hoffman, Rell Sunn, Lisa Anderson, etc...

Lo and behold...there was one of your early mats on display...as part of the permanent collection?

It was contrasted with an older Hodgman-type rental raft for effect.

They had one of George's "edge" boards on display too....neat stuff!

Fantastic crafts of historical importance...good times.

JJ

Jun 5, 2018

From #ericwouldgo


Eric Bridges demonstrates the Drop Bear technique.

Even from the great beyond, Mat Man can school us with the wisdom of the ages!

We miss you, buddy...

Jun 4, 2018

From Dr. Steve

Hi Paul,

     I saw a couple YouTube videos of people using surf mats, which I had never heard of before.  We go to the beach at Navarre on the Florida gulf coast and we were there this weekend after the tropical storm - I bought some cheap ($10) Intex rafts hoping to recreate the surf mat idea and even tho the waves were very small I was shocked that the kids and I were riding waves in way better than we ever do on buggy boards.
 
     These waves are very small and they break very close to the sandy beach so I don’t think there is time for turns or tricks - it is basically ride it 40-50ft onto the beach.  I wanted to ask you if we bought a real surf mat would we experience something a lot different knowing the limitations of our waves?  Just wanted to pick your brain - thanks!
 
    Steve

Jun 1, 2018

From Steiny

Let the heckling begin!

Steiny

May 31, 2018

May 29, 2018

Oily Re-Surfaces


 The Bombora

 Da Bolt and Gilligan's

 
 

Hey Paul, 

Hope this finds you all happy and healthy. Well, it's been a while since we SCUMMbags have sent any stoke your way and just in case you’d forgotten us, I'll drop you a line or two.

The colder weather is slowly taking grasp.. its been a long time coming the winter swells and they have slowly started delivering energy for us to use and abuse…

A couple of grabs from a session we affectionately call Monuments.. and some others from another session at Gilligans

and of course  a little movie of the mornings adventure.

Be safe, take care my friend..

Oily
SCUMMbag...

May 27, 2018

From Mikey


I opened the box and it looked like a flower.

Thanks Paul. 
 
I took it out that same afternoon and it's really fast !

Mikey, M.O.A.

May 26, 2018

Fretless Surfing


Some months back, San Diego's Jim Cahill brought up an interesting way to describe matting...he characterized it as "fretless surfing."

Not being a stand up bass player, or a violinist, I can only surmise what the freedom tinged with challenge playing a fretless string instrument would be like. And yet, I instantly related to mat surfing in those terms.

The most obvious analogy to a fretless instrument would be a "finless" surfcraft, which of course would include matting. But there's something deeper to this idea as it pertains to mats, which I can't really put my finger on.

Additionally, mat surfing is devoid of the ''fret'' associated with conventional surfing, in terms of competing for "good" waves in a crowd. So it works on that level to.

I wish I had more to say, but I don't. Please share your thoughts in the comment section, and maybe we can round out this concept.




May 22, 2018

Do You Hear 'Standard' Or 'Omni?'



A carefully recorded track of air being released from a surfmat has been circulating on the World Wide Web!

Some mat riders -- just under 50% -- hear the word "Standard.''

Another 49.99% hear "Omni.''

According to leading psychologists, the breakdown seems to fall along personality lines...

The Standard people are outgoing, gregarious, and anxious to connect with others in a positive and caring way. They are intelligent, humorous, and full of good will.

The Omni people are somewhat more withdrawn, but will answer the call of others when needed, and are selfless in their concern for the well being of plants, animals and people. And, like the Standard folks, they radiate warmth and intelligence.

Most likely, you fit one of those two categories.

The remaining 1/10 of 1% hear the word "Vespa." This is the troubled sector of humanity, for whom help is of little value...be it either personal counseling or pharmaceutical in nature. As we speak, these dregs of society are being rounded up by totalitarian tech firms and shipped off to "readjustment camps." If you fall in this rare category -- thankfully, the odds against that are roughly 1000 to 1 -- you're advised to seek shelter immediately.

May 18, 2018

From Anthony


 Hi Paul,

The SW swell was pumping yesterday. I filmed a few of the boys on their mats and wanted to show you the waves I matted yesterday on the Lotus SS. The wave of the day is Drain Pipe, it’s fickle but insane when it breaks. The mats was perfect for the end section where speed is needed and having a soft mat pays off if you don’t make it. Enjoy the short video!
  
Anthony

May 16, 2018

Women In Early Wetsuit Marketing

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Women figured prominently in the first-gen wetsuit advertising paradigm. It's obvious that the depicted ''divers'' are models in wetsuits -- as opposed to real sea creatures in their natural habitat, like these three...


Gobs of images from that era here ...