Feb 18, 2018

From Delon


Ellis, Beau + Crowe. Byron Bay, last week...photos, Delon Bone.

Feb 15, 2018

Latest From SCUMM


Little peep from last Sunday with just Neal and Phil.

Fly like a Seal, Eric and I used to do this all the time, had one fisho pissing him self laughing, the others were like, WTF...

Sunset Session With Rob


It was so good this evening! The Rights where firing!!!! Yeeeeewwwwwwww! 
I couldn’t bring myself to film or shoot photos. I surfed solo and it was amazing! I took the Lotus SS and I turned my brain off and just reacted to the wave and had an amazing time! I had to cut my session to an hour because work worked me today, but every wave was magical! I’m so Stoked right now!!!! I wish I could send you some 🤙🏼! 
The surf check picture above is from my phone. That’s the Plaza!

Stay Stoked! Positive Vibes and Healing Energy my Friends!

Super Stoked,

Feb 14, 2018



Bike Flex

 Frame flex testers comparing notes in the field.

It might seem a little off topic, but this expose' on bike flex relates directly to mats and surfboards. It deals with the myth that's grown over recent years...that the stiffer a bike frame is, the faster it will go. That concept follows a logical thought pattern: The stiffer the frame is, the more power is transferred from the rider as he or she peddles. Flex, the notion goes, absorbs energy and robs the rider of forward motion. In professional bike racing, even the slightest disadvantage is a major liability, so high end bikes have gotten stiffer and stiffer to address that belief.  Perhaps in vain, as it turns out.

This article goes into a pretty detailed study of bike flex, and how, if properly applied, it can actually add to the speed of the rider. The conclusion isn't that flexy bikes are faster, but that the right amount of flex relative to the rider will indeed generate more speed. As to why, it's best to read the article.

From the experience of mat surfers and hull riders, it was established decades ago that a properly flexible surfboard will go faster. Greenough's first flex fin was built in 1962, and his first flexible kneeboard in 1965...

The reason is flexible boards will conform to the wave face...if only slightly in the case of a stringerless board. A flexible board will naturally track into the most powerful part of the wave and absorb more energy.

In the case of surfmats, the reasons for lower inflation levels going faster are more difficult to verbalize. In fact, nothing short of comparing a mat that's fully inflated and a mat that's partially inflated will convince anyone of that fact.

Add to that, mat inflation levels that are too low will cause the mat so slide out and thus lose all of its speed. So, like bike frame flex, hitting the sweet spot is key. Unlike a finished bike frame, a mat's flex (via inflation level) can be changed from minute to minute.

Anyway if you have a few minutes, the article is a good read...

Feb 13, 2018

Fatty Tuesday

On this Fat Tuesday, here's a quick clip of Greenough on a 4GF Fatty...a master class in mat riding technique!

Also...Olympic skeleton events start tonight at 11:30 PM, West Coast time, and run for a few days.

Feb 12, 2018