Jun 15, 2018

From Rob

 
 
Paul,

Summer is here!
 
Thank you so much for all you do!
 
Positive Vibes and Healing Energy! Much Love from Florida!

Super Stoked,
Rob

Jun 13, 2018

Our Relationship With Water


This is a long read, and in no way surfing-oriented...but any surfer can relate on a visceral level.

And, a hopeful project to help rid the ocean of plastic...






  

Jun 11, 2018

From Adam

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Howdy Paul

I had John Adkins write to me, he is coming back for a visit again and bringing mats with him as well as kneeboards, should be here in a months time, so just in time for the true cold winter swells to arrive. 

I meant to slip this edit to you last post, its from the morning that Neal filmed , you can really see how hard his crap hips have affected him just walking, but he is all good and in recovery from having 2 new hip joints installed, he sounded in good spirits when I spoke to him this morning, a week at rehab, then back home to recover...we will have our own camera man for a few weeks till he is back in.



This was our last together before his operation, this break is called the Bogey Hole, such a fun quirky right hander, when its really big you can take off from around the point ( it called Kamakazi's)  with a big bowl section before wrapping back into the bogey hole . Its so much fun on mats and the trick is to take off right next to the wall, ride the foam wall, then pull into the bowl section over the rock ledge and then onto the reform which takes you onto the beach.



I love my kneeboards but have been rocking on these little soft top boards, so much flex in them, riding boards 4'6" you learn rail control is totally different to surfing a standard fibreglass kneeboard...this was our 2nd surf after riding mats most of the morning.



adam

From John



Hot Bod Beach Babe Pool Float.

Hit the beach, pool, or lake with a hot body--no matter what shape you're in! Heavy-duty vinyl pool float looks like the hottest gal above water, and features 2 handles and an ample "bosom" for you to comfortably rest your head. 

Approx. 72" x 35" with reinforced edges.

- Hit the beach, pool, or lake with a hot body--no matter what shape you're in!
- Heavy-duty vinyl pool float looks like the hottest gal above water
- Features 2 handles and ample "bosom" for you to comfortably rest your head.
- Made with REALPRINT technology.
- Approx. 72" x 35" with reinforced edges.

Strip And Dip World Record

Details (but not too many details) on the successful cancer fund raiser are here ... well done, lasses!

From Adam



Jun 8, 2018

From Adam

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Howdy Paul

Its been awhile since I last wrote, so hope all is well at your end of the world.

We have had plenty of swell and waves of late, but the other weekend was more special as we were able to score this reef to ourselves for a couple of hours before being joined my a fellow surfer.

Neal is due for his double hip replacement this Thursday, so with him finding it harder on the mobility scale, he decided to film instead of surf , which is much appreciated and I think he did a great job as well.

I also was trying out a couple of new camera mounts ( attached to ankle & forearm ) lucky as I broke my main helmet camera mount , duck diving a wave, so was able to quickly switch whilst in the water and continue to join in the fun.

You can see the difference between the ' width ' of our mats, I was riding my Lotus, while both Paul and Phil were on their Omnis , the hand placements are a give a way, but Phil did mentioned to me a few weeks back that his arms did not touch his mat whilst paddling the Lotus, where as the Omni was a wider mat and his arms were rubbing the sides.





I went back the following Sunday and surfed solo, such a eerie morning with the fog.




Anyways, life is still good down here in our little part of the world!

Adam

Jun 6, 2018

From Mister Dirk

Hi Paul,

You probably know that Adam Williams is a kneeboard legend down there, before he took to the mat. I’m in a kneeboard group on FB and pictures of him are off the chart sometimes.

Dirk

From JJ Of The OC



Hello Paul,

What a surprise I got this past weekend!

I took Gayle and Ivy to the new Surfing Heritage Museum in San Clemente.

There was an opening night exhibition honoring women surfers...specifically Joyce Hoffman, Rell Sunn, Lisa Anderson, etc...

Lo and behold...there was one of your early mats on display...as part of the permanent collection?

It was contrasted with an older Hodgman-type rental raft for effect.

They had one of George's "edge" boards on display too....neat stuff!

Fantastic crafts of historical importance...good times.

JJ

Jun 5, 2018

From #ericwouldgo


Eric Bridges demonstrates the Drop Bear technique.

Even from the great beyond, Mat Man can school us with the wisdom of the ages!

We miss you, buddy...

Jun 4, 2018

From Dr. Steve

Hi Paul,

     I saw a couple YouTube videos of people using surf mats, which I had never heard of before.  We go to the beach at Navarre on the Florida gulf coast and we were there this weekend after the tropical storm - I bought some cheap ($10) Intex rafts hoping to recreate the surf mat idea and even tho the waves were very small I was shocked that the kids and I were riding waves in way better than we ever do on buggy boards.
 
     These waves are very small and they break very close to the sandy beach so I don’t think there is time for turns or tricks - it is basically ride it 40-50ft onto the beach.  I wanted to ask you if we bought a real surf mat would we experience something a lot different knowing the limitations of our waves?  Just wanted to pick your brain - thanks!
 
    Steve

Jun 1, 2018

From Steiny

Let the heckling begin!

Steiny