I had John Adkins write to me, he is coming back for a visit again and bringing mats with him as well as kneeboards, should be here in a months time, so just in time for the true cold winter swells to arrive.
I meant to slip this edit to you last post, its from the morning that Neal filmed , you can really see how hard his crap hips have affected him just walking, but he is all good and in recovery from having 2 new hip joints installed, he sounded in good spirits when I spoke to him this morning, a week at rehab, then back home to recover...we will have our own camera man for a few weeks till he is back in.
This was our last together before his operation, this break is called the Bogey Hole, such a fun quirky right hander, when its really big you can take off from around the point ( it called Kamakazi's) with a big bowl section before wrapping back into the bogey hole . Its so much fun on mats and the trick is to take off right next to the wall, ride the foam wall, then pull into the bowl section over the rock ledge and then onto the reform which takes you onto the beach.
I love my kneeboards but have been rocking on these little soft top boards, so much flex in them, riding boards 4'6" you learn rail control is totally different to surfing a standard fibreglass kneeboard...this was our 2nd surf after riding mats most of the morning.