Oct 18, 2019

Surf, Eat, Have A Snooze, Hit It Again...



Hey Paul..

I was just going through my personal recordings of my trip to Lanka late last year...interesting listening back and seeing how i felt on that trip re the mat experience...things don't get distorted i guess if written down or recorded in the moment..

Anyway thought i would pass it on .. click  here,   and open the audio file.

We have had some great banks of late locally and even though its a sketchy time of year there have been some great fun sessions and giving all 3 mats, eg XL, Std along with the Tracker a good workout along with the body...

Still haven't tried out the Lotus..just waiting for That Session.

Hope your traveling well.

Lou G.

Oct 13, 2019

From Jonathan


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Hi Paul,

I intended to write an account of my time in Raglan for your blog, but the truth was, surf-wise, it was pretty unremarkable. I just wasn’t feeling like the experience I had (which was more focused on my friends and the quiet beauty of the place than on the surf) would have fit the surfmatters bill.

But now I’m home, dog walking full time. The contrast was profound upon returning. I’ve included a few pictures that might be nice for Surfmatters.

When we were talking about mat riding in artificial wave pools a while back, this is what I was living in! Without a lot of good surf on this trip, I though a lot about the broader picture of what “surfing” meant to me… and it was appreciating the whole experience, the environment, the journey to the shore, the weather, the animals, the people. Steve Pezman wrote something I agree with in a recent Surfer’s Journal to the effect that surfing was all these extramural things; that wave pool surfing was something, but not surfing.

There was SOME quality wave riding though :) 
Right at the end of my trip. I had to go find it away from Raglan, dog-sitting down in the same fertile wave zone as last time. That vacation-within-a-vacation delivered good, uncrowded surf every day. I only brought mats - my Lotus, and the two I left for my friends four years ago, my Standard and my first ever mat from you, the Tracker Roundtail, circa 2010. Both these mats still held air :) and both went great! Those sessions were like dying and going to heaven - long rides without crowds or even anyone at times (!), and plenty of room to refine/explore how to maneuver and make it down the line. Mostly at the long left hander in the photos, pictured on different days in different moods. My go-to spot, five minutes from where I was staying :)

The messy right hand point reminded me of the spot Nat Young and GG rode in Crystal Voyager.

One funny story to go with one of the photos: the golden retriever I was sitting was pouting because his family was away, and then he disappeared overnight. I was terribly worried, and emailed the owners the next morning. They told me to get in their car and head out like we were setting out for his walk. Not 30 seconds down the road, the damn guy appeared in my review mirror INSIDE the car - he’d spent the night in the back! WTF!!

Another photo shows the ripples running along the inside of the harbor. The little waves made a sublime sound, something like a bucket of water pouring, an almost laughing sound... incredibly soothing and relaxing.

Also included a few images of some of the more choice book covers from the little bookstore I worked in.

Anyway, this was meant to be brief :)

Really hoping you guys are well, and that we all make this gnarly section that’s looming ahead….

Jonathan

Sep 18, 2019

From Paul W


Here I am finding micro shade on the Omni a few weeks ago. I don't think I'll pick up a surfboard again.

Paul

Sep 14, 2019

From Mat Max




 Hi PG, Howzit?

Not much surfing lately due to continued muddy waters on south shore from spring runoff. Too spooky with ever present tiger sharks (who are not a problem in clear water). Everyone in my life are fine. Anyway, I spotted this interesting vid that relates to mat technology.

Hoping you and Gloria are well... Fat Max

Sep 13, 2019

From Biarritz


Thks Paul, i will try to send you a picture of one ride as soon as possible!
 
Romain

Sep 9, 2019

From Mikey

Hey Paul!

Can't tell you how much joy matting brings to my life. All I know is that it's a gift.

Attached, a shot of my friend Rob on a mat under a pretty sky.

I'm headed to Australia at the start of October. Can't wait to mat there.
 
Mikey

From Dwight

Made it to Gaeta!

Dwight

Sep 5, 2019

Largest Mat Wave Ever???

Mister Dirk submitted this image of himself on what he claims is the largest wave ever ridden on a mat.

"No one has ever seen a wave larger than this," he said. "Totally a Category 6 comber, which no one has ever even heard of...let alone ridden, let alone ridden on a mat..."

Aug 30, 2019

From the Dark Side 😟


 Hey Paul,

Here's a clip from Lemoore the other day.

Like I said before, its really challenging to ride a mat out there. The energy is so different from the ocean, its hard to hold a good line. You can see in the footage, the wave energy is keeping me at the bottom of the wave, and its really easy to get behind the curl.

I rode the Omni you made me, felt like that was the right mat to bring, being my smallest/most agile mat. Super fun, but very challenging.

Nolan

Aug 26, 2019

From Bob

 
Mat Man Incident Report - 
 
I was waiting between waves north of Morro Rock this morning with my friend Jody Mulgrew (aka Mat Man 2.0) when a surfer near us said, "Here they come!" The next thing we knew, a dozen dolphins swam swiftly straight at us, passing on both sides. It is one thing to see dolphins from the beach and an entirely different experience to be surrounded by them. Up close, they are very large, very strong, very fast and in total control. The experience will not be forgotten.  

Bob

Aug 16, 2019

Mandos, A Few Days Ago ...

 
 
 
 
 
 
I know, I'm burning a well kept secret secret spot, but protocol be damned. This action sequence of a tandem mat ride is awesome!

Aug 7, 2019

R.I.P. Cal Porter

 Cal Porter, 2012.


Cal Porter, legendary Malibu lifeguard and word class waterman, passed away on June 13th of this year. He was 94 years old.

Much has been written about Cal, and by Cal. Here are some samples. They're well worth your time reading...

 http://www.malibutimes.com/news/article_e8ef1642-96b6-11e9-aa4b-a34350c86df4.html

 https://countyrecurrent.blogspot.com/2011/12/in-beginning-lifeguard-by-cal-porter.html

 https://countyrecurrent.blogspot.com/2012/06/lifeguard-to-be-or-not-to-be-by-cal.html

 http://www.malibutimes.com/malibu_life/image_3dcfa690-44f5-11e4-a61f-8f31dca8c256.html




Aug 1, 2019

From Mister Dirk

Everything's bigger in Texas!

Jul 31, 2019

Schaudenfreude Of The Day




A wave pool in China goes on the blink!


"According to reports, a malfunction at a wave pool in China caused a freak wave to injure 44 people.

The accident occurred at the Shuiyun Water Park in Jilin Province, in north-eastern China. It’s a part of something called the Yulong Bay Scenic Area, which opened in 2015. Also included in the park is a glass-bottom bridge, a theme park, and horseback riding tours.

The park’s official statement is at odds with the tally of injuries being reported. “It was caused by a mechanical fault,” said a park official. “Only around 10 people were injured. “The wave pool was closed for a day for repairs. It’s already been fixed and will be open tomorrow.”

According to the South China Morning Post, five people were sent to the hospital for a variety of injuries, included fractured ribs."

 
No word yet if someone is for hacking into the computer operating system...but if so, my money is on the SCUMM gang as the perps!

Jul 24, 2019

From Oily

.

Hey Paul, Greetings..

You asked to keep you posted on my new purchase of the standard so here goes. Friday was a well forecasted swell and all reports from Neal ‘ The Guru’ Cameron during the week it was cranking smoking, but alas in my haste to make an early morning raid and give the ’Standard’ a good old work out I left home without it and yes the SCUMMBags did let me know about it also. luckily the trusty Omni ...haha.

It was a great mat ring session at one of our fav offshore reef breaks and the Omni “Dabolt’ did not let me down so here is a couple of minutes of a couple of hours of that session. We did get mentioned in dispatches later that day about the 4 mat riders apparently dominating the line up… oops and with Pat getting some bombs from out wide he’s stoked with the 4GF there’s some footage of him nailing one.

The swell had backed right off by Sunday morning and an early morning slide at Mat Cove with Phil and Adam was on the cards. So the commissioning of the Standard was in some small peelers but big healers right handers your fav.. Paddled out straight into a small peeler of the reef and took off..bit of a slip sideways first wave thought i had the inflation right but had to let some out anyways it was a fun morning as always. Looking forward to a big day out at Gilligan’s on it sometime soon I hope.

Stay happy and healthy mate many thanks for the speedy delivery you’ve set the “Standard”..

 :-) Oily
SFFS

Jul 19, 2019

July 20, 1969


Great collection of Apollo 11 mission pics here ...

Pretty good look back at the confluence of Apollo11 moon landing and Woodstock here ...

Jul 16, 2019

Tour De France Off Day


What do Pro Cyclists do on their day off at the Tour??? Why, read a book while readying to go for a surf on inflatable cycling gear!

Jul 11, 2019

More From Adam

Hey Paul

Hope you are well and that earthquake did not do too much damage!

Found this nice pic online , always a big grin on the mat riders!
 Last weekend was a buzz, we had a couple surfs Saturday and caught up with my mate Nathan who is riding his Fatty...

 


This was after we spent the morning surfing the Bogey Hole with Paul and Phi



 Stay well mate. Oily is looking forward to his new Standard!!

Adam

Jul 7, 2019

From Adam


 
 Pic: Oily
Super small but uncrowded fun!

Adam/SCUMM

Jun 30, 2019

From Patrick

In beautiful Mollymook with the Tracker!

Been riding the Tracker in real quality reef breaks so stoked with it...

Patrick

Jun 28, 2019

From Chuck


Waiting for the right moment to charge.  In Nicaragua with my Fatty!


Chuck


Jun 27, 2019