Feb 1, 2020
Thank you for the mats they really helped me keep my sanity.. Waves looked small and a little mixed up this morning..A change from the BOMBS we have been having all week.. Good day for a mat..give it a go might get a couple little corners..As I am heading out the waves just keep getting bigger and further out.. I was making it through most of them.. Getting half way up the face and just punching through with all I had to not get sucked backwards over the fall.. The waves were a really pretty translucent blue color.. The water was warm.. But they were definitely more than I thought I was going to get into..Kind of had to wake up the serious side. Only me and one other guy up the beach aways ..
I finally got all the way outside.. Now what.. All I really saw were thick close outs on the race out.. Paddled to a landmark spot I have thinking this would be as good a spot as any for maybe making one.. Had to let a few go by and keep going further out.. Finally I see a peak in about the right spot.. It has a pretty good shoulder maybe.. I kick and paddle the mat as hard as I can not going to be a easy one to catch.. I got it.. But it is so big that any angle top turn for a easy set up is impossible.. We're going over with it.. I knew I had a shot at making it IF I could hit the bottom twist the mat into a turn and somhowe hold a line using everything I had to keep from sliding sideways and getting severely pummeled..
Somehow I came around the section thinking I have to get up the face some to find the slot.. DID IT.. Now off to the races down the line through several long arching tubing sections.. I ended up waist deep at the finish.. That was my first wave of the day.. For some reason I knew I was not going to be able to top that one.. I tried to get back out but the tide had shifted and all I was doing was diving under waves.. I caught a couple safe mid sized ones and called it a day.. I had watched the waves for at least 1/2 hour before heading out and saw nothing like those waves.. Frikin Mats are cool...