Hi Paul,
Haven't seen much surf up this way all summer.
Today the swell picked
up. I went to north reef and it was going off. I pulled up during a set
that must have had 100 waves in it. The reef was doing its thing with
waves breaking all the way to the sand. I made 2 phone calls and suited
up, with waves coming in non stop. I walked down the trail and out on
the sand while watching countless waves coming in. I put on my suit and
inflated my mat, then entered the water with the same set of waves still
pouring in. I got clobbered in the beach pound but finally punched
through. Waves were still coming in as I made my way to the outside. I
got closer and closer to the takeoff zone and all I could see was waves
stacked to eternity.
As I was just about to the lineup spot I had to go
over one more wave, then I would be in position to flip around and go on
the next one. To my surprise, the set ended and there was no next one.
No problem, I will catch my breath and get ready for the next set.
Well,
I sat for 2 hours and nothing came in. It was as flat as a lake. I
eventually ran out of time and paddled in. Oh well!
Aaron
