Hi Paul,
I surfed mats in the 60's, mostly in Belmar and Long Branch, NJ. They were the traditional canvas mats with ropes that I decorated with a black marker. I didn't have a car so I had to take a train, which passed by about half a mile from the beach, so I had to walk in to the beach and change there, putting my clothes in a rental locker.
We didn't have Surfline then, so I never knew what I would find when I got to the beach, anything from 1-2 footers to overhead. I was able to get off for Labor Day weekend (1967) and when I left the train station, I thought that they were piledriving some supports, because there was a rhythmic thump I could feel and hear. I got to the beach and there was a hurricane swell with triple overhead waves coming across the jetties.
The lifeguards had closed the beach to everyone, surfers included. I met some friends from my high
school and waited all day until the lifeguards went off duty. The beach had pretty much cleared out because of the conditions. The surf had stayed up and was clean. I wanted to get out but there was no way to get my raft through the shore break. I got the idea of deflating it and managed to duck dive with it and get way outside.
There was no one there, probably because they either couldn't get out or had too much sense to try it. I treaded water and inflated my mat. I managed to catch a ride in that nearly went from jetty to jetty, got out and deflated the mat. I swam out again and reinflated the mat. I looked at jetty on my right and saw some guys with a rope trying to work their way over the jetty. I figured that someone had a problem on the inside and was in trouble. Luckily I caught a wave in, got out and then got surrounded by the police and the guys with the rope. They had spotted me and thought I had gotten swept out and were trying to save me. No jet skis available back then...I explained to them I was just surfing but they were so pissed off I was escorted from the beach. I got my clothes from the locker, went to the train station and came back home. I didn't mention any of this to my folks. It was my first introduction to big wave surfing.
There was no one there, probably because they either couldn't get out or had too much sense to try it. I treaded water and inflated my mat. I managed to catch a ride in that nearly went from jetty to jetty, got out and deflated the mat. I swam out again and reinflated the mat. I looked at jetty on my right and saw some guys with a rope trying to work their way over the jetty. I figured that someone had a problem on the inside and was in trouble. Luckily I caught a wave in, got out and then got surrounded by the police and the guys with the rope. They had spotted me and thought I had gotten swept out and were trying to save me. No jet skis available back then...I explained to them I was just surfing but they were so pissed off I was escorted from the beach. I got my clothes from the locker, went to the train station and came back home. I didn't mention any of this to my folks. It was my first introduction to big wave surfing.
Great memories,
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Paul, You're the best! We are still down south, and will be home by Saturday night. Fun waves at Rincon yesterday, maybe a trip to The Ranch before heading on our way back north Friday. Have some vids and photos from Sandbar session on Tuesday. The Omni was fantastic! Started with more air, then it got faster as I deflated it some and the tide dropped. Some real screamers off the top of the bar. Out by myself for an hour--so fun. My bro was stoked you liked his record; Dirk can email him to get permission to use the tracks on a video. Stay in touch; I will be down again in July and maybe we can get a south swell session then.
Take care,
Jeff-----------------------------------------------------------
Paul,
Thank you for your reply.
I am sure Cedric will love his birthday present!
I will provide him with the Rider's Guide when I receive the surfmat.
I will also give you some updates as to how it goes for him as soon as possible.
Regards,
Alexia
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Hi Paul,
I am looking for a mat to ride in very small mushy conditions. I currently have the fatty and take it out in conditions under 3 feet but would like something that works even better in really small 1 ft conditions (I mainly surf beach breaks).
Looking that the mats on your website it seems like both the xl and vespa are the next size up from the fatty. Just wondering what the differences are between the 2 and which you would recommend (I am 5 ft 9 and 187 pounds, and am average in matting ability , meaning that I can set my line and keep in the curl of the wave but am still getting the hang of doing turns or cutbacks. I tend to inflate my mat so it bends at 90 degrees).
btw on a side note , I found that while you certainly cannot ride a surfmat like a bodyboard, you can ride a bodyboard like a surf mat. by taking the skills I learned from matting over to bodyboarding I have improved heaps bboarding.
Anyway thanks for continuing to put out such a great product.
Regards,
Albert
PG- I had such a good slide at indicators this afternoon. Wow! I feel so elevated. Chris Cravey was out on his 4th gear too. He was surfing well. A young man on the inside looked at me enviously and said "that looks so fun". Thanks for all. My mats make me so happy.
Best to you and Gloria. Steiny
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Thanks Paul!
I
can't believe how enjoyable it is riding waves with your mats. They
have become my "go to" surf craft no matter what the surf conditions
are, whether I'm surfing here at home or while traveling on vacation.
Best regards,
Erik
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Awesome! Thanks Paul. I bought one of your mats a few years ago and love it. Looking forward to getting a second.
Thanks again,
brad
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Thank you Paul.
I should go to the Maldives for a surf trip in May...I hope to send you some pics of your mat in the Indian Ocean.
All he best.
Paolo
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Dear Paul,
Weds. morning I paddled
out on my Omni at a local break, a right wedge next to a large sea
stack similar to Ano Nuevo when it's on. Swell was running 8'@13" and
the sets were a little bit larger than head-high. I always laugh when I
get this wave (and the two others near it) to myself, as the three
comprise some of the best mat surfing in my area, and rarely do I ever
have to surf with another person.
Yesterday was one of
those classic North Coast days when it looks marginal from the beach,
but really delivers once waves start to be ridden. As soon as I hit the
water, what I noticed was the incredible grip the sanded deck provided
on my belly. Now, I had surfed the Omni twice before, at Sandspit and
Pt. Conception last week, but it wasn't until I paddled out to a home
break, a familiar spot, that I realized what this mat was all about.
As
I rode the current out into the lineup, my mat was fairly firm, and I
rode the first few waves with it fairly stiff. These were fun waves,
but warm-ups really, as I was just starting to get the feel of my new
vessel. Once I let the air out a little, the mat was tight when
bent in half.
All
in all, the Super Sport model blew my mind. It was fast, grippy, and
maneuverable simultaneously, and I felt a real sea change with the new
deck surface: I can stay on, and with, my mat in heavier situations, and
as result my session was a real stoker. I can't wait to get it into
more roping tubes and get a feel for its acceleration down the line. My
buddy John has yet to get his mat wet, but when he does (maybe up in
Crescent City next week) I imagine his stoke will be as fulfilling as my
own. Thanks for the design, and look for more pics and video from me
in the coming weeks.
Committed As Ever,
Jeff on the North Coast
Alicia
Timothy
Something led me down the beach to another break, where lo-and-behold, the misfits were out in full force. I got some friendly tips from a regular and a distinguished fellow with and omni walked up, and we paddled out together. It was sweet, AND the vibe was so welcoming.
-JM
Hi Paul- the mat came today. I will ride it and report back!! I rode my old four pontoon classic yesterday. Low inflation. Not quite as fast as my Omni but held really really well. Rode very neutral and cleanly. It had been a while. I was stoked. Thanks again I will let you know how it goes. Hope you have been getting waves and having fun.
I indeed received the surfmat last Monday evening.
Thank you for the endorsement: that is exactly what I was looking for.
Cedric was very happy and cannot wait to try it out!
Regards,
Alexia
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Paul,
My
brother said he and you and Dirk got some great waves this past Tuesday
at Campus. What a winter! As you saw, I caught some great sessions
while down south last week, and was excited to take my new mat out in
NorCal surf when I got the chance.
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Hi Paul,
The Omni arrived today. Thanks again for the great deal and signing it!
Have a good weekend and happy Easter,
brad
Hi Paul,
The 4gf surf mat(s) arrived today, just in time to get them in the water this Easter weekend. We will let you know how they go.
Thanks again for the amazing deal and a wonderful product!
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Paul,
The mats came yesterday, I am so excited!
Thank you so much for the personalized "model info". This spring/summer/life just got a whole lot better!
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Thanks Paul, I can't wait to ride it. I loved the xl model I used to have, and I'm sure I'll be stoked on this one.
Robbie
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Thanks a million for your thoughts. I can't wait to get
my hands on a mat.
I think the fatty might be the perfect match for me right
now. I'm going online to place an order right now. I have a sneaky
suspicion that this won't be the only mat that ends up in my quiver.
Sincerely,
Thanks a million for the help! I can't wait to get out on the water with the fatty.
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I found the matting/bodyboarding/body-surfing community at a sweet little break in OB yesterday ;)
After I spent a half hour with the taciturn/eye averting surfers down the beach, wiped out, lost my mat, had to fish it out of the little jetty where it washed up/got stuck, I was feeling like packing it in.
After I spent a half hour with the taciturn/eye averting surfers down the beach, wiped out, lost my mat, had to fish it out of the little jetty where it washed up/got stuck, I was feeling like packing it in.
Something led me down the beach to another break, where lo-and-behold, the misfits were out in full force. I got some friendly tips from a regular and a distinguished fellow with and omni walked up, and we paddled out together. It was sweet, AND the vibe was so welcoming.
-JM
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Hi Paul- the mat came today. I will ride it and report back!! I rode my old four pontoon classic yesterday. Low inflation. Not quite as fast as my Omni but held really really well. Rode very neutral and cleanly. It had been a while. I was stoked. Thanks again I will let you know how it goes. Hope you have been getting waves and having fun.
Steiny
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Thanks Paul..the mat dominates the lineup when its squirrely up here..never thought id b saying that..
Tom
Hi Paul,
Jack
David
The Lotus
really impresses me. Seems to ride higher in the wall with good speed
and excellent ability to turn. When I first got on it I was worried
because it felt long but this worry was baseless. Really stoked.
Thanks,
Stein
PS-
had a nice visit to Big Sur, surf wasn't great but we had fun and good
to be out watching "Big Sur Television". Lawn chairs, beer and staring
off into space.
Let me know if I can do anything to help you out. The mats make me so happy
Steiny
Ron
Rich
I've been on injured reserve for a few weeks with back problems, so good to be back in the water.
hope you are well and having fun.
JS
Victor
How are you? Hope it was good, that you are good,
family is good, 4th Gear is pumping, Spring is kind, Trump
loses ignominiously... all that, sincerely.
I'm
well. Only three weeks left for me here. I recently had a chance to get
out of Raglan and housesit for some friends about 4 hours south of
Raglan. It's a fine surf zone, 270 degrees of coastline fanning a
magnificent 2,500m conical volcano. Dozens of good-quality lava reefs
and points, lots of creek and rivermouths, and plenty of options to
catch a good wind direction. It's a pretty compact geography too,
maybe... I dunno, an hour from the first viable surf zone to the last?
After bussing down, my hosts gave me use of their car, which was
fantastic, although my favorite little cluster of spots was only a bike
ride away from their house. There was even a solid swell and high
pressure predicted, so I had high hopes.
What a
great time. I had a handful of fun surfs in five days before the
conditions went to custard. I'd brought the Liddle and the SS Standard. I
ended up using the mat most of the time.
Surf 1
was at a right point (amidst a complex of other lefts and rights, with
still more setups visible in the distance). It was a Saturday, it was
school holidays, and even still, only 5 teenagers sharing good
chest-to-slightly overhead offshore waves (that's the difference between
the rest of New Zealand and Raglan right there!) It's a great mat wave,
long, with fast, wall-y sections going into flatter sections, then back
into a fast wall again- don't you just love "imperfect" point waves on a
mat?
The Standard ripped. The wave demanded
constant repositioning in a way that the machine waves at Raglan didn't,
and the SS went wherever I wanted it to- high line, cutback. I was able more effortlessly to go where I
needed to go to make the wave.
Two things stood
out to me this session: On my first wave I was outside and in full view
of all the kids. For better of worse, you want to do well your first
wave to establish your competency and place in the lineup. Without a
warmup, I caught an outside set wave and did a half-drop into a top
turn, came off the top then down into the flats then back to the top,
and so on past the watching kids. The SS enabled that showiness, no
doubt.
The
swell came down the next day, and I took the mat out to a little secret
beach break that picked up what swell was left. The peak I chose was
about chest high, it was a windswell and the little waves had a variety
of speed pockets and reform zones, requiring quick choices to get the
most out of the ride. The extra-responsive SS was a blast. The rides
were like little Rubic's Cubes, puzzles to solve : ) Really fun session,
alone on a lonely beautiful beach (well, I had the dog I was sitting
with me).
Late afternoon the next day, I
caught the beginning of the new swell at one of the spots near my house.
Each set was bigger than the last- it went up from chest high to well
overhead in less than an hour. Oh boy....
The
next morning it was BIG. I went with a friend to a left point that is
somewhat fickle; it can be a longer ride than Raglan's points when it's
on. This day it was imperfect, most waves were broken into two big
sections, with some connecting through and some maxing out and pushing
through both. My macho pal who errs on the side of underestimating was
calling the biggest set waves 6-7 foot, meaning 12-14 foot! But there
were lulls where it was possible to paddle out dry-haired, it was sunny,
the water was gorgeous, blue and glassy, and many of the waves were
perfect (and smaller non-bomb sets were a friendly 8 foot). I initially
paddled out on the Liddle, more because I'd fantasised about this spot
on that board than it seemed like a good choice, but after a few waves
realised, naw! Went in and got the mat.
Well,
WOW! This was a first for me. A few impressions. Maybe stupidly, I never
felt outgunned. Because the setup included an indicator outer point and
a blue-water zone to the right, I felt pretty confident. I did get
caught inside one by a massive surprise bomb set, but I just held on
with my whole body and was able to roll it, and wasn't really badly
worked or mentally freaked. In fact, this was the first time I've
handled rolling waves (and fucking 10-foot whitewashes!) doing the
whole-body bear hug that I've read about, and it was the ticket this
day, I just immediately knew it (I've always opted to hold one or both
corners and let the mat go turtle, my body straight down).
No
huge problem getting into the waves. It was glassy, and the waves rose
in a friendly, ramp-y way, not jacking up. I swim into waves on the mat,
mat on one arm ahead of me, which allows early entry. The two zones
were pretty concentrated and distinct, so positioning wasn't an issue,
or too heavy.
MAN!!! The drops! I kept, or it
felt like I kept, getting sucked up to the very top of a huge ski jump,
dangling for a second, then whooooooooooshing on down! On some of the
first few I had so much forward speed turning was an issue : 0 At least
on one, I just realised "fuck it" and had to keep going straight (and
discovered how big it really was, rolling huge whitewater walls). Each
wave was followed by a 15 minute paddle back out (half hour if I got
pushed all the way in, which happened twice)- the sweep down the point
was intense. I had a lot of time to think about what to do
differently... I needed to angle left on the drop. And in fact, that
worked- the mat freakin' handled that line, on (for me) huge waves, at
eyeball-peeling speed. I sure felt small though, and splayed out, not
really sure what to do with my limbs going that fast with so much face.
Survival stance, haha!
So the takeaway from
that session is that rolling using the whole-body hug works, it's hard
as hell to "bottom turn" after a big drop straight down; need to angle a
bit. And the mat HANDLED it, it WORKED, and it was FUN!!!!!
So- thank you for giving me that experience, and all the others!
-Jonathan
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Paul,
Cant thank you enough. Our family had a surf mat from you that lasted
forever. It was such a treasure growing up.
Thanks for helping me out with this. Really stoked to give it to my
wife and my brother. Your equipment has brought about endless smiles,
epic fun times and good freaking waves.
Looking forward to getting them.
Best,
danny
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It is so interesting how small changes effect the
speed and ability to hold. I have been watching Sam on his Lotus. That
thing is very interesting to me. Hmmmmmm. Also, still thinking about the
session I had on the low inflation Classic. Really quite good. Maybe I
am improving and finding something to love about each of them. Plus the
conditions have been truly wonderful. A bit scared about the water temp
today. The wind was super strong and steady yesterday. Upwelling!!!!!
Hope your day went well and you are having fun.
Best,
JS
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Thanks Paul. I'm super stoked. It's been years since we
rode "rafts" in the summer in O.B. I've never liked body boards, and
can't wait to get back into my favorite pastime with a product that's
designed for it.
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Received the mats yesterday! Thanks so much! Super excited to take 'em out!
Pam
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Paul,
Ron
and I went out in 2 to 3 foot clean surf this morning in Ventura. We
had a great three hour session on the mats. Gotta say I love the new
Fatty! I also tried his new Omni and really liked it. The onshore winds
started up midsession, but the bump had no major effect on us (hence the
3 hours).
The Tracker seems to hold its line slightly better then the Fatty, but that is easily corrected with a dip of a fin.
The Fatty seems easier to duck dive. Both mats are great, just the right size for me and fun to ride.
Thanks for shipping it to me so quickly and making such a great product!
PG- Hope all is well.
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Took the omni out yesterday morning. 2-3’ incoming tide
with a little offshore for the first hour coming down from the ojai
valley. That mat really just worked for me. Had a nice little barrel
early on. Wave catching, duck diving, making it through flat spots, all
were a breeze on it. I settled on a 180 firm fold that seemed right
yesterday; will be interesting to see in overhead conditions.
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Your Mat is usually more fun than surfing...a five foot wave feels like five
feet overhead, because it IS!
Thanks, Gil
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Thanks Paul, received it today - how quick!!
Looking forward to testing it out in a couple of weeks.
Cheers
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Really good. Summer conditions, edges and corners at the lane.
Some guy on the cliffs says "what is that thing? You were going really fast!"
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Hi Paul,
I
took the surf mat out today and had a blast. Waves were 2'-4', but had a
bit of push. I started walking about 2 weeks ago with a boot and
crutches. I just started walking without a cane, full weight bearing
last week. I only paddled out with one (1) fin (on my good foot),
because the therapist advised against using it for the other ankle just
yet. I struggled a bit at first but started to get the hang of it after a
while. It's still a bit hard to get into the waves, but that may be
because I was only on one fin. Finding that sweet spot for paddling the
mat takes a bit of time I suppose. It was a feeling like nothing else
though once I caught waves. It's great to be back in the water!! I'm so
happy that I decided to take the plunge and try mat surfing. You make a
great produce and have provided me with awesome customer service and
stoke. Thank you & happy Memorial Day!!
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