Hi Paul,
Been
fortunate to have taken this week off work and timing it well with the
recent swell. Monday was Rincon, crazy big, crowded and fun. More
watching than wave riding but I got a few. Tuesday was Deveraux and
Sands, good times, much less crowded and low key.
Today,
December 19, was the climax. Smallest waves, but best times for
sure. Surfed for about 5 hours mid day. Only two guys in the
water when I showed up. Also a 4' peeler ran right past me with no one
on it as I rode within view of the beach.
The crowd
swelled to about 8 for several hours, then when it got near 20 I
decided it was time to go. But not before I snapped a picture of Kenny
on one of the smaller waves. We had been hanging together off and on
for about an hour when I decided to call it a day. I was eating a snack
when I saw one of the set waves come in, and Kenny looked to be in good
position. Then I thought, "No, he's too deep, he will never make it."
Well, he did make it and had a great ride. Unfortunately, I did not
think about taking pictures until I saw that wave, so the one included
is him on a smaller wave. BTW, those smaller ones were just as fun,
maybe more sometimes. Just ask Kenny.
Matt
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