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I was surfing my favorite secret spot today on the beginnings of Typhoon
Malakas. I had run into an old surfing buddy early in the day, and we
had exchanged pleasantries. I took off on a wave on the inside and had a
very fun ride right along the shore, one of the better rides (for me)
of the day. When I ended, I was close to my buddy, and he yelled out to
me, "Hey, I got a picture of you on that wall hanger, I'll text it to
you." And so here it is, the first time I've seen myself riding a mat.
It's pretty small, but the picture captures the scene well. Hope you
enjoy it.
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