Mates? Have enjoyed another backpack adventure on Molokai. Lots very
good days riding the incredible Mini Max.
Heaps of new friends and
enlightening experiences. Gave the Lotus to a lovely family from da big
island with a ripping son who charged on the mat so hard that I just had
to turn it over. His GF rode it in NZ (see sbove).
Am back with Mom and
Dad in Gisborne. Everything is sweet. Hoping you are well and having
above video is of Paul N and I surfing one of my favorite pointbreaks,
Coco Pops, just us out on a Sunny Monday morning....ran Paul straight
over with my Omni..I never felt a thing either.
had two of my oldest grandkids down last weekend and took them down to
Gilligans for an adventure and swim, of course the surf was okay with
just a handful out. As luck should have it, their parents came down
early to pick them up, which left me a window of 3 hours to head back
with a surf, so after grabbing Paul, we met up with Neal for a late
soggy Sunday afternoon session.
Heaps of fun small waves to be had with a minimal crowd of longboarders to contend with.
the XL Super Sport! Chasing those inside closeouts is rewarding, you
get barreled, and you get a free Chiropractic session! I couldn’t get
These mats are so much fun! I don’t think I could be anymore stoked on
them! I have really only had waves over 3’ once since buying both mats,
but I’m getting a lot better at catching these small waves and milking
any juice they have in them. I can’t wait to learn some more!
again for the mat! I’m still surfing almost every day.
Here is a
picture of me on a beautiful little clean wave! My buddy Chris Falzone
shot this, he rode the Fatty yesterday and loved it. The waves where too
small and week for any other surf craft but the mats where flying. He
should be contacting you soon to add one to his quiver. Keep spreading
the Stoke! :-)
The Standard will be my next mat to buy for sure, and I know what
you mean about the oz dollar being weak, we spent 2 weeks last May in
Hawaii, visiting friends on Molokai, then onto the Big Island and Kauai ,
so still hurting from the conversion rate, but money well spent., we
had a blast and I matted a few breaks, even left a mat with my friend on
These are some pictures
from our "Scarmatra" Trip back in 2015. Justin is riding a Standard and my
Omni, now this was a true boys trip, I only took my bonzer, spoon,
paipo, plane and a couple of mats.
The term "4th Gear," in relation to surfing, was coined by Greenough when describing a level of speed that transcended riding in the curl of the wave.
In George's world-view, first gear is riding along the wall at the speed of the curl. In essence, it's riding as slow as you can go and still make the wave.
Second gear is when you have enough speed to turn up and down, or back and forth, on that same wave, covering the same total distance as you would in first gear...but at a higher rate of speed over the water because you're moving up and down rather than in a straight line.
(Paul Masiel and I in first gear at the right. Greenough in second at the left.)
Third gear is when you have enough speed to break loose from the wave and travel out and over distant sections.
The size and quality of the wave isn't an issue, either. You can hit third gear in foot high slop!
Fourth gear is when you're going so fast that you're surfing completely beyond the speed of the curl...often riding up in the lip of the wave as it fringes in front of you.
When the Standard became tuned in (back in '84/85) George commented that it was the only mat that he'd ever surfed that he could to hit 4th gear on. Not long after, it became the name of our mats!