Jun 23, 2016

More From The Cruz Boyz ...

 

Hi Paul,

Steiny sent a link to this footage from last Friday. Classic commentary! Neat to see externally what I'm feeling.

Jonathan

Jun 22, 2016

Two From Jonathan ...

Note: The "Super Sport" mats that Jonathan refers to below are stock 4GF models that have been pre-softened prior to construction, and have a very slight amount of reverse rocker built into them as well. This is a design thread that I've been working on for a year or two, and is available on special order. Email us for more details...

PG


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Hi Paul,

How are you? Looks like (gleaned from Surfmatters) you went on a trip? Hope it was good, that you are good, family is good, 4th Gear is pumping, Spring is kind, Trump loses ignominiously... all that, sincerely.

I'm well. Only three weeks left for me here. I recently had a chance to get out of Raglan and housesit for some friends about 4 hours south of Raglan. It's a fine surf zone, 270 degrees of coastline fanning a magnificent 2,500m conical volcano. Dozens of good-quality lava reefs and points, lots of creek and rivermouths, and plenty of options to catch a good wind direction. It's a pretty compact geography too, maybe... I dunno, an hour from the first viable surf zone to the last? After bussing down, my hosts gave me use of their car, which was fantastic, although my favorite little cluster of spots was only a bike ride away from their house. There was even a solid swell and high pressure predicted, so I had high hopes.

What a great time. I had a handful of fun surfs in five days before the conditions went to custard. I'd brought the Liddle and the Super Sport Standard. I ended up using the mat most of the time.

Surf 1 was at a right point (amidst a complex of other lefts and rights, with still more setups visible in the distance). It was a Saturday, it was school holidays, and even still, only 5 teenagers sharing good chest-to-slightly overhead offshore waves (that's the difference between the rest of New Zealand and Raglan right there!) It's a great mat wave, long, with fast, wall-y sections going into flatter sections, then back into a fast wall again- don't you just love "imperfect" point waves on a mat?

The Standard ripped. The wave demanded constant repositioning in a way that the machine waves at Raglan didn't, and the SS went wherever I wanted it to- high line, cutback. I guess I've run out of new insights from what I've already said, but to repeat: compared to the regular Standard, the SS doesn't sideslip in crucial sections down the line, it responds more decisively to turn implementation, so I was able just that more effortlessly to go where I needed to go to make the wave.

Two things stood out to me this session: On my first wave I was outside and in full view of all the kids. For better of worse, you want to do well your first wave to establish your competency and place in the lineup. Without a warmup, I caught an outside set wave and did a half-drop into a top turn, came off the top then down into the flats then back to the top, and so on past the watching kids. The SS enabled that showiness, no doubt.

The other thing I noticed this session is that while the Super Sport has a much higher "hold threshold" before it breaks rail trim to go into a side slip (or a "trimming side slip") than the regular Standard, the way I'm riding, it does go into a sideslip cutting back quite easily. I guess I'm just riding flatter then, less angled on the rail, air more evenly distributed, inside rail less full.

On the topic, side slipping is something that I really want to explore with the SS mats. The extra hold was the first thing I noticed with the Super Sport, I've been super-stoked on the hold in crucial sections, but...I 'm finding I kind of miss the ease with which the regular mats broke into sideslip. Just need to find the right technique; I'd rather have the hold than not have it. I think the key is flattening out, and that I'm breaking loose cutting back suggests it's there to be found....

The swell came down the next day, and I took the mat out to a little secret beach break that picked up what swell was left. The peak I chose was about chest high, it was a windswell and the little waves had a variety of speed pockets and reform zones, requiring quick choices to get the most out of the ride. The extra-responsive SS was a blast. The rides were like little Rubic's Cubes, puzzles to solve : ) Really fun session, alone on a lonely beautiful beach (well, I had the dog I was sitting with me).

Late afternoon the next day, I caught the beginning of the new swell at one of the spots near my house. Each set was bigger than the last- it went up from chest high to well overhead in less than an hour. Oh boy....

The next morning it was BIG. I went with a friend to a left point that is somewhat fickle; it can be a longer ride than Raglan's points when it's on. This day it was imperfect, most waves were broken into two big sections, with some connecting through and some maxing out and pushing through  both. My macho pal who errs on the side of underestimating was calling the biggest set waves 6-7 foot, meaning 12-14 foot! But there were lulls where it was possible to paddle out dry-haired, it was sunny, the water was gorgeous, blue and glassy, and many of the waves were perfect (and smaller non-bomb sets were a friendly 8 foot). I initially paddled out on the Liddle, more because I'd fantasised about this spot on that board than it seemed like a good choice, but after a few waves realised, naw! Went in and got the mat.

Well, WOW! This was a first for me. A few impressions. Maybe stupidly, I never felt outgunned. Because the setup included an indicator outer point and a blue-water zone to the right, I felt pretty confident. I did get caught inside one by a massive surprise bomb set, but I just held on with my whole body and was able to roll it, and wasn't really badly worked or mentally freaked. In fact, this was the first time I've handled rolling waves (and fucking 10-foot whitewashes!) doing the whole-body bear hug that I've read about, and it was the ticket this day, I just immediately knew it (I've always opted to hold one or both corners and let the mat go turtle, my body straight down).

No huge problem getting into the waves. It was glassy, and the waves rose in a friendly, ramp-y way, not jacking up. I swim into waves on the mat, mat on one arm ahead of me, which allows early entry. The two zones were pretty concentrated and distinct, so positioning wasn't an issue, or too heavy.

MAN!!! The drops! I kept, or it felt like I kept, getting sucked up to the very top of a huge ski jump, dangling for a second, then whooooooooooshing  on down! On some of the first few I had so much forward speed turning was an issue : 0 At least on one, I just realised "fuck it" and had to keep going straight (and discovered how big it really was, rolling huge whitewater walls). Each wave was followed by a 15 minute paddle back out (half hour if I got pushed all the way in, which happened twice)- the sweep down the point was intense. I had a lot of time to think about what to do differently... I needed to angle left on the drop. And in fact, that worked- the mat freakin' handled that line, on (for me) huge waves, at eyeball-peeling speed. I sure felt small though, and splayed out, not really sure what to do with my limbs going that fast with so much face. Survival stance, haha!

So the takeaway from that session is that rolling using the whole-body hug works, it's hard as hell to "bottom turn" after a big drop straight down; need to angle a bit. And the mat HANDLED it, it WORKED, and it was FUN!!!!!

So- thank you for giving me that experience, and all the others!

-Jonathan


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Hi Paul,

Been back from NZ for a few weeks now. I got a job the second day back, produce at a health food store, 4AM wakeup time, so it's been quite a trip getting accustomed to that. One of the nice things is it leaves a fair bit of time to surf, and there's been those nice south swells the last few weeks. Had some fun sessions at Steiny's (or The Lane, to some people). Kind of amazingly, it's been LESS crowded than freakin' Raglan, which says more about the state of poor Raglan than anything else.... I'd say, to sum up the surfing side of my six months in Raglan, it was rather sobering. I knew the high season would be packed, but previous years the mobs tapered off around March. This year that never happened. I had very few sessions that weren't marred by overcrowding. My hopes of really "studying" the Super Sport mats in those fine waves were pretty compromised, and if I ever make it back there, I'd definitely choose another place to visit, for surfing at least.

Raglan bears watching though.... Folks there are recognizing that over-tourism is threatening to ruin the very qualities that draw people in the first place. NZ legally allows "freedom camping" which is pretty much what it sounds like, and more tourists are taking advantage of it than ever. The upside is a degree of revenue for businesses. The downsides are packs of people in the faces of the majority of residents who don't profit from their dollars, hanging out, cooking meals and lounging right there on the town's main street or on residential streets, leaving trash and (ugh) used toilet paper in barely-hidden places... and yep, crowding out the surf.

So the people have been holding a series of community meetings, to isolate the issues and try to figure out strategies. There's also been talk of attempting to regulate the numbers of surfers at Manu Bay. If they can figure out a feasible way, it'll be a true precedent for the modern surfing world.

In the meanwhile, I figured out a way to personally handle my own mood in the water. Ever notice how a dog wags it's tail when it's just walking along? Pure joy-de-vivre. I picture I have a wagging tail, like a dog's. It's been working for me- for real! I am a serious animal lover, so no illusions that I've hit upon The Answer, but it might work for others that love dogs : )

Anyway, this is the coda for my trip. Now that I have the means, I'm attaching some photos.

First is Hillbilly Hill, Mike's land, with my shed, Possum's bus and Mike's place bus at the top. Over the crest is Macho Phil and family's land (Mike and Phil own the parcel together).


Next, the view from Mike's, and my shed. Looking north to miles of empty coast.
Then a trio of insect pics- a preying mantis on a flex fin, a fucking big spider (guitar pic for scale), and a stick insect, sunnies for scale. My rule of thumb for NZ (compared to the benign SF equivalent situation): if it feels like something is crawling on you, there is something crawling on you.


A shot of the eccentric little bookstore I worked in, and one of the titles we featured.


Three shots from the retro contest I entered. If you zero in on the second one, there I am, exhibiting winning form, haha.
 
Possum's dog, Buddy. Possum forbid me from playing "fetch" with Buddy, because he would get "too riled up". Poor Buddy, only a year old- hence the plaintive look!


Jed, the dog I sat on my trip south. Fantastic dog, whip-smart, sweet, obedient and perfect in every way! And a great surf dog- he would wait patiently on the rocks while you were out, no problem. Probably a chick magnet too, but I never ran across any chicks....


Next shot is the nice righthander. Shift change- we six went in, then three paddled out. What a contrast with Raglan!


Next two are the left point on the big day I wrote about. Not very impressive, I'm afraid- you'd have to know that view to know how big that is. The second shot is the inside, double overhead after tapering down.


And somewhere in this order is me riding a blustery day at Whale Bay on the Liddle.

OK, enough. I want to thank you again for the chance to ride the Super Sport mats. I hope my feedback has been of some help! If nothing else, a lot of people (...) got to see one in action. Funnily enough, regarding the difference in controlled side slip ability (less than the Standard imo), I've been having no trouble doing that move in the surf at Steamer lane these last few weeks. Go figure. If I realize anything new (and I'll keep my antennae open to it), I'll be sure to write. As always, so so grateful for your surfcraft, sincerely.

Best Regards,
Jonathan

Jun 19, 2016

Some Inflatable History, From Bicycle Times ...



Words: Damian Antonio
Illustration: Stephen Haynes
This article originally appeared in Issue #30

The year was 1887. John Boyd Dunlop was doing what is assumed most 47-year-old men in Belfast, Ireland were doing in the late 19th century: sitting on the porch waiting for the pub to open.

 

He gazed out to the street outside his house. Dunlop Junior was following his doctor’s orders by taking his tricycle for a ride — apparently standard treatment for a head cold at the time. Dunlop watched his son grimace with pain as every bounce of the trike’s solid, rubber tires over the cobblestone street sent a shockwave through his son’s spine and hands.

As a veterinarian, Dunlop had a penchant for relieving creatures of their misery. And this is exactly what he decided to do for his son (though presumably using a different method than that which he would use for a horse with a broken leg). In a moment of brilliance (or laziness), he grabbed the object nearest to him, which happened to be an old garden hose. At the time, he had no idea that the tattered, rubber hose would not only change his son’s life, but also his own and that of millions of others for hundreds of years to come.

Dunlop cut the hose into long strips, glued them to the wheels of the tricycle and inflated them with a soccer ball pump. Both father and son were amazed as Dunlop Junior glided over the cobbles more smoothly and comfortably than ever before. In fact, Dunlop was so happy with the results that he soon fixed wheels of the same design to his own bicycle.

He took his bike down to Cherryvale Sports Ground in South Belfast for a test ride. Also at Cherryvale that day was young William Hume, captain of the Belfast Cruisers Cycling Club. Hume watched on with bemusement and curiosity, as this solidly built man — impeccably dressed in a waistcoat and top hat, the wind splitting his long, white beard down the middle and blowing it back on to either side of his neck – cycled on these strange, oversized, puffy wheels. Little did Hume know that this odd-looking fellow would provide him with an unprecedented competitive edge, and place him forever in the annals of cycling.

Dunlop, however, knew what he had stumbled upon and he rode down to the patent office in late 1888. He queued next to a man who had come up with an inventive way of extracting corks from bottles, and another who had devised a way of extracting drinks from glasses. The latter called his invention the straw. Dunlop quietly scoffed and muttered to himself, “Pfft, that’ll never catch on.”
He soon cycled home on the “pneumatic tires” for which he held the patent…or so he thought. Dunlop wasted little time in establishing his first tire manufacturing plant in Belfast in 1889. And once his tires hit the market, who should walk in to buy the first set? None other than Willie Hume.

Eyeing the opportunity for some free marketing, Dunlop suggested that Hume use the tires at the upcoming Queen’s College Sports competition, to which Hume agreed. On the day of the big event, Hume was ridiculed with vicious taunts such as “sausage wheels.” But he held his nerve to win all four of his races — quelling the naysayers and turning plenty of heads in the process.

One important head he turned was that of William Harvey du Cros, a local paper manufacturer and entrepreneur. He was so impressed with Hume’s success that he approached Dunlop with a business proposition. Dunlop, taken with du Cros’ moxy, accepted his proposal and the pair established the Dunlop Rubber Company in 1890.

With bicycles now commonplace and nicknamed “boneshakers,” and automobiles just coming onto the scene, Dunlop and du Cros’ timing could not have been better. The same could not be said for Dunlop’s fellow Scotsman, Robert William Thomson, who had obtained the patent for his own version of the pneumatic tire 44 years prior. Despite having performed excellently on a group of carriages in London, Thomson’s tires, which he dubbed “aerial wheels,” faced an untenable lack of demand and were put on the shelf.

Once the patent offices around the world caught up with their paperwork, Dunlop’s patent was declared invalid. Fortunately though, he was permitted to continue manufacturing his tires and by 1893, after only three years in production, virtually every butt on a bicycle was thanking John Dunlop for a smoother, faster and more comfortable ride. And they’re still thanking him today.

From Bluebell ...

Hello Uncle Paul,

I'm writing about a mat recommendation.

I'm 6 lbs, 10 oz...although they say I'll grow over the next 18 or 20 years. (This is an outdated photo. I'm 3 days old at the present time.)

I mostly surf the slosh in the my wash basin. Hopefully, I'll get into some more juice in Matt and Nicole's tub by this time next summer. (They are my mum and dad.)

Also, I prefer an off-white mat, with red and green print motif. Do you have that available?

Thank you very much,


-- Bluebell




Jun 16, 2016

Lost Classic ...

On what would be Stan Laurel's 126th birthday,  (b. June 16, 1890) it seems appropriate that Surfmatters would uncover a lost Laurel and Hardy short, entitled "Cheer Up, Stanley!"

Shot in 1930 (and running only 72 seconds) it was the last silent film Laurel and Hardy ever made...


It begins with Oliver and Stanley sitting down to dinner...


 It's obvious that Stanley is distraught over some unseen problem ...


Oliver tries to cheer him up by sharing an anecdote about his love life ...

 
 

Jun 15, 2016

From Eric ...

 
 
 
 
 
 


Hi Paul

On the 6.6.16 we had the biggest, cleanest, swell on the east coast of Australia since 1974. (so they reckon).

I was in Noosa Q/land when it passed by and we had 7 days of perfection. Had a ball on my 4GF Omni.

Meanwhile at home the scumm crew had to wait for the size to drop, so they could get into our favourite spot, Gilligan's Island.

See pictures of local mat slider, Neal Cameron riding his 4GF Tracker, with Adam taking the photos on his new Go-pro 4 Black.

Seeya inda soif...eric da bolt

Jun 8, 2016

Ancient Secret Revealed !!!

Here's a graphic representation of why you should get into mat surfing...


In the top photo, observe the heretofore loser making his way down the road for a go-out. A bit overweight, poor posture, and a sloppy walking gait.

Upon his return, after only one go out on a mat, he's some 30 pounds lighter, with an admiring female in tow.

Anthropologists call this "The Inflatable Male Halo Effect." Tracing back to the paleolithic era, males of a variety of species rely on puffing themselves up to become more attractive to females. This ancient secret can be yours with the simple transition to mat surfing!

Jun 3, 2016

From Peter ...

 

Paul,

While perusing “THE RAKE” I came across this picture of what is obviously a leather surfmat with removable/adjustable waterline extender and custom transportation module. 

Thought you’d like to know about it. 

PC

May 30, 2016

From JJ ...





 Hello Paul,

I've been holding on to this particular pic for some time. Not sure if it warranted being posted on Surfmatters.

Lo and behold, Roger posts the Leyendecker image, then it all clicked!

This is a neat 50's Kodachrome vacation snap (whereabouts unknown). If you look closely, you can spot some Hodgman content.

I'll report back to ya on my new Polara soon!


JJ


May 29, 2016

From Roger ...

Paul,
 
I found the attached illustration by the great JC Leyendecker that is probably the precursor of the post "Australian Beach Pattern (1940)."

I suspect it predates the Australian Beach Pattern work by about 30 years, harkening to an era before swim fins and surfmats had been invented.  Seems like a good illustration for a lazy Memorial Day Weekend afternoon. 
 
Roger Crossland

May 23, 2016

From Bob ...


Hey Paul,

This is me. You can see Morro Rock in the background.

Pat Pemberton took the pic...


Bob

May 17, 2016

From Rob ...



Hi Paul
 
 
I have had the Lotus  out 3 times now and I must say for the type of waves OB has it has worked the best.

Now the surf I tried in has been pretty junky but as you know if the surf is good anything works. So I found that for OB even when it is junky it is still steep and fast and the Lotus really held like no other mat. At OB you usually have turn at the top and go so holding that line was 100 easier on the Lotus. It will be interesting on a slopey wave so i will let you know about that. I did notice the glide was a little diminished on the smaller day but I will take hold over glide.
 
I showed Steiny the attached pic of me from 1966  in Santa Cruz and suggested I send it to you. As you can see matting was in my blood from an early age!
 
(That's me on the mat! The other guy was just some kid that was attracted to the graham crackers I was eating!)

Thanks
Rob

May 16, 2016

From John ...


 

Hi Paul,

Mossy finally got to try his new mat yesterday, I think you may have a new convert :)

Surf was tiny high tide stuff you would normally drive away from and we had an hour just having the crack :)
 
John B