Just a little update from
Ecuador..
Thank you for the mats they really helped me keep my sanity..
Waves looked small and a little mixed up this morning..A change from
the BOMBS we have been having all week.. Good day for a mat..give it a
go might get a couple little corners..As I am heading out the waves just
keep getting bigger and further out.. I was making it through most of
them.. Getting half way up the face and just punching through with all I
had to not get sucked backwards over the fall.. The waves were a really
pretty translucent blue color.. The water was warm.. But they were
definitely more than I thought I was going to get into..Kind of had to
wake up the serious side. Only me and one other guy up the beach aways
..
I finally got all the way outside.. Now what.. All I really saw were
thick close outs on the race out.. Paddled to a landmark spot I have
thinking this would be as good a spot as any for maybe making one.. Had
to let a few go by and keep going further out.. Finally I see a peak in
about the right spot.. It has a pretty good shoulder maybe.. I kick and
paddle the mat as hard as I can not going to be a easy one to catch.. I
got it.. But it is so big that any angle top turn for a easy set up is
impossible.. We're going over with it.. I knew I had a shot at making it
IF I could hit the bottom twist the mat into a turn and somhowe hold a
line using everything I had to keep from sliding sideways and getting
severely pummeled..
Somehow I came around the section thinking I have to
get up the face some to find the slot.. DID IT.. Now off to the races
down the line through several long arching tubing sections.. I ended up
waist deep at the finish.. That was my first wave of the day.. For some
reason I knew I was not going to be able to top that one.. I tried to
get back out but the tide had shifted and all I was doing was diving
under waves.. I caught a couple safe mid sized ones and called it a
day.. I had watched the waves for at least 1/2 hour before heading out
and saw nothing like those waves.. Frikin Mats are cool...
ACE