It was maybe the best matting day at *** today. The waves got much bigger after the camera went home... seriously!
Here are some pictures of Ricky this morning at *** on Steve's blog. About an hour after this, it was nonstop for an hour of waves on the farthest out boil past the rocks connecting all the way across. For a guy who never surfed, he sure is getting good quick. I saw him going as fast as possible in full trim going all the way across the point today.
*** has its moments in the mornings and way less crowded. All the surfers think of it as afternoon spot, but as long as there is 2 feet of water it's fine.
Hope you are well. I haven't tried my new 9 Inch Nail Fin yet as my Liddle sat on the beach all morning. Too much fun running over kelp on a mat!