May 31, 2009

"The Funnest Thing Ever..."

From morSurf ... download it here !

(Thanks to SurfSister for the heads up on this gem...)

May 27, 2009

Do You Feel Like This?

Sometimes when I'm out matting I forget everything and just be. Well, my Mom found this opinion in the New York Times that expresses the value of just being:

What is happiness? How does one get a grip on this most elusive, intractable and perhaps unanswerable of questions?

I teach philosophy for a living, so let me begin with a philosophical answer. For the philosophers of Antiquity, notably Aristotle, it was assumed that the goal of the philosophical life — the good life, moreover — was happiness and that the latter could be defined as the bios theoretikos, the solitary life of contemplation. Today, few people would seem to subscribe to this view. Our lives are filled with the endless distractions of cell phones, car alarms, commuter woes and the traffic in Bangalore. The rhythm of modern life is punctuated by beeps, bleeps and a generalized attention deficit disorder.

But is the idea of happiness as an experience of contemplation really so ridiculous? Might there not be something in it? I am reminded of the following extraordinary passage from Rousseau’s final book and his third (count them — he still beats Obama 3-to-2) autobiography, “Reveries of a Solitary Walker”:

If there is a state where the soul can find a resting-place secure enough to establish itself and concentrate its entire being there, with no need to remember the past or reach into the future, where time is nothing to it, where the present runs on indefinitely but this duration goes unnoticed, with no sign of the passing of time, and no other feeling of deprivation or enjoyment, pleasure or pain, desire or fear than the simple feeling of existence, a feeling that fills our soul entirely, as long as this state lasts, we can call ourselves happy, not with a poor, incomplete and relative happiness such as we find in the pleasures of life, but with a sufficient, complete and perfect happiness which leaves no emptiness to be filled in the soul. (emphases mine)

This is as close to a description of happiness as I can imagine. Rousseau is describing the experience of floating in a little rowing boat on the Lake of Bienne close to Neuchâtel in his native Switzerland. He particularly loved visiting the Île Saint Pierre, where he used to enjoy going for exploratory walks when the weather was fine and he could indulge in the great passion of his last years: botany. He would walk with a copy of Linneaus under his arm, happily identifying plants in areas of the deserted island that he had divided for this purpose into small squares.

On the way to the island, he would pull in the oars and just let the boat drift where it wished, for hours at a time. Rousseau would lie down in the boat and plunge into a deep reverie. How does one describe the experience of reverie: one is awake, but half asleep, thinking, but not in an instrumental, calculative or ordered way, simply letting the thoughts happen, as they will.

Happiness is not quantitative or measurable and it is not the object of any science, old or new. It cannot be gleaned from empirical surveys or programmed into individuals through a combination of behavioral therapy and anti-depressants. If it consists in anything, then I think that happiness is this feeling of existence, this sentiment of momentary self-sufficiency that is bound up with the experience of time.

Look at what Rousseau writes above: floating in a boat in fine weather, lying down with one’s eyes open to the clouds and birds or closed in reverie, one feels neither the pull of the past nor does one reach into the future. Time is nothing, or rather time is nothing but the experience of the present through which one passes without hurry, but without regret. As Wittgenstein writes in what must be the most intriguing remark in the “Tractatus,” “the eternal life is given to those who live in the present.” Or ,as Whitman writes in “Leaves of Grass”: “Happiness is not in another place, but in this place…not for another hour…but this hour.”

Rousseau asks, “What is the source of our happiness in such a state?” He answers that it is nothing external to us and nothing apart from our own existence. However frenetic our environment, such a feeling of existence can be achieved. He then goes on, amazingly, to conclude, “as long as this state lasts we are self-sufficient like God.”

God-like, then. To which one might reply: Who? Me? Us? Like God? Dare we? But think about it: If anyone is happy, then one imagines that God is pretty happy, and to be happy is to be like God. But consider what this means, for it might not be as ludicrous, hybristic or heretical as one might imagine. To be like God is to be without time, or rather in time with no concern for time, free of the passions and troubles of the soul, experiencing something like calm in the face of things and of oneself.

Why should happiness be bound up with the presence and movement of water? This is the case for Rousseau and I must confess that if I think back over those experiences of blissful reverie that are close to what Rousseau is describing then it is often in proximity to water, although usually saltwater rather than fresh. For me, it is not so much the stillness of a lake (I tend to see lakes as decaffeinated seas), but rather the never-ending drone of the surf, sitting by the sea in fair weather or foul and feeling time disappear into tide, into the endless pendulum of the tidal range. At moments like this, one can sink into deep reverie, a motionlessness that is not sleep, but where one is somehow held by the sound of the surf, lulled by the tidal movement.

Is all happiness solitary? Of course not. But one can be happy alone and this might even be the key to being happy with others. Wordsworth wandered lonely as a cloud when walking with his sister. However, I think that one can also experience this feeling of existence in the experience of love, in being intimate with one’s lover, feeling the world close around one and time slips away in its passing. Rousseau’s rowing boat becomes the lovers’ bed and one bids the world farewell as one slides into the shared selfishness of intimacy.

…And then it is over. Time passes, the reverie ends and the feeling for existence fades. The cell phone rings, the e-mail beeps and one is sucked back into the world’s relentless hum and our accompanying anxiety.

May 26, 2009

From Bob M ...

Hi Paul,

First, let me say that, between my 4GF and my Neumatic, this 63 year old (50yr plus board surfer)is getting more waves than ever.

I got a couple of weeks of warm water and real waves in Mazatlan in April, and my wife said its like I'm a gremmie again.


Bob M.
San Pedro, CA

May 23, 2009

Winter Is Coming Down Under

Why can't every day be like this pict that I have on my
pc desktop to remind me of the feeling of summer?

Talkin' Story Blog

There's a great surf story blog at
with an article by Pranaglider called I ride a mat.

May 8, 2009

Best Contest Surfing Ever...

Kalani Robb and Skyler Peak

Jimmy Gamboa

Ryan Conder

Hi Paul,

Here are some pictures from last year at the Malibu Invitational. I'm adamant about not surfing contests, and asked instead to give us an hour at the event with nobody out so we could take special needs children out for a surf.

The kid surfing with Jimmy Gamboa can't walk or talk. It was pretty amazing. She loves surfing. He actually took her again a couple weeks ago! Jimmy is one of the most gifted surfers with kids with special needs I have ever seen.

The boy surfing with Skyler Peak is a Malibu regular named James. He is non-verbal, and loves surfing more than anything. When he's at the beach, he bangs on the decks of boards until someone takes him out! He is obsessed with the movie Crystal Voyager also, and watches it over and over (along with March of the Penguins.)


Note from PG:

Ryan and I are working on a two-person mat so he and Jimmy can take special needs kids for a mat surf. We should have something together by mid summer.

UDT mod by R.S.

Hey Paul,

Basically, I started out using a Japanese pull saw to trim the end and side rails, then a chisel to carve out a middle rain, followed by a lot of sanding till I went from "acoustic" hand labor to the electrical solution.

I busted out the Black n Decker 'dragster' electric planer on the UDT's. I think I've finally lost enough rubber and have the right flex for my feeble sticks to handle these now.

It was an interesting sculptural pursuit. It would be nice to model a pair of ultimate fins in clay and have them cast in rubber...some day!

I used them today and the flex seems suited to a longer kick for my size etc. I feel like they sit somewhere between a full UDT and a Viper fin. I kept the angle profile on the sides and just lost a lot of rubber whilst maintaining the fin design. I like how the blue marbling comes out when you taper the blade out thinner.

Nice session this morning at ****** **** with Ryan. The UDT's are now near perfect, and sweet on the ankles!


May 4, 2009

New Mat Video!

Shot by Wardie, and featuring Boyd Kellner riding a 4GF Hybrid Fatty...

May 3, 2009

Another Matter

Hi Mat Max,

Ryan loves his mat and is learning fast! I figured Paul would be happy.


S. Hadley

May 2, 2009

Rincon, 1974

These shots were taken on a bumpy afternoon in the spring of 1974. It was a weekend, but there were only a few SU surfers out. George, Paul Masiel and I were out at the Indicator. My brother Dan was taking pictures. Most of the waves ran all the way into the cove. I remember making at least a dozen walks over the rocks back up the point that day.

Top photo is me, second photo is George and Paul M, bottom two shots are of me. We were all on Hodgman "Stripes Across" mats. All purchased at The Coast Chandlery in Santa Barbara.

We ended up eating tacos at "The Spot" in Carpenteria later that evening.

Outer Banks, Early 70's...

Hodgman "Stripes Across," five pontoon canvas mat. This was during blackball hours at the Frisco Pier...I was the only guy out all afternoon!