Mar 30, 2014

Update: Bretto In Paradise

Hi Paul,

Today is Nyepi day which marks the Balinese new year. Everyone is confined to the compound for 24 hours, no traffic, no lights, no going out and of course no surfing. 
The day of silence is to fool the bad spirits into thinking there is no one here and therefore they pass by. The gods are kind this year as the surf has dropped to as flat as it gets picking up tomorrow and the day after just to top off what has been a trip of a lifetime.

Mar 29, 2014

From Erik ...

Erik Bluhm sourced these 60's era mat riding photos on a Facebook page dedicated to surf clubs in the South Bay area of Los Angeles.

The link to the surf club page is here . Even if you're not into the club scene, it's a treasure trove of images and story.

The top mat photo with a nice thread of comments is here ...

Mar 27, 2014

From Tim ...

Hi Paul,

I hope you are well. I just wanted to let you know that I have published a new video:

Actually I never thought I would do something with the material from my last summer vacation in France. It was either completely flat or big and closing out. Still I managed to get some fun rides on my Omni.

When I now look at the result I realize that the video is so much more about the anticipation that I feel when I'm on the way to go surfing. I'm always nervous and if feels like I'm having a first date. To me this anticipation is such an essential part of the whole surfing experience. So this video shows more of the getting to the waves rather than actual mat surfing. I hope you like it anyhow.

By the way, I’ll be in in California on a business trip arriving next Tuesday evening and I’ll be staying for almost two weeks. It’ll be my first time in the area and I have planned in a couple of extra days to visit the coastline and to do some filming if possible. It would be great to meet some other surfmat riders too.
Kind regards

From Eric ...


Hi Paul
Attached are photo’s of SCUMM mat slider Justin “Slaga” Spittle down the coast on a nice day recently.
Justin rides a 4GF Standard most of the time, the same as me. He likes to hold a high line on most waves after he paddles in with is arms and certainly generates heaps of speed. He is based in Sydney but hopes to move down our way soon. Another lover of the south coast NSW.
Also enclosed a picture of what a tube looks like from the inside and outside, GoPro camera’s are the go.
Regards Eric Da Bolt

Mar 26, 2014

Another Indo Update, This Time From Neil ...

Hi Paul,

Was over in Bali over the weekend and unfortunately didn't hit the swell as Bretto has. Here's a photo of barely breaking Uluwatu.  Ignore me and just look at the faces of the surfers behind.  I always love the "what the hell was that?" look  that people give me when I get the wave that they didn't. This is on my Standard.

Neil H.

Poor Bretto !!!

Hi Paul,

18 days straight has taken its toll. I'm surfed out and need a day off.
This trip has been a dream, absolutely awesome surf with no one around just one or two mates. 

I've got a fair few good photos for you but I'll have to wait until I get home and work out how to get them to you. Still got 10 days to go and the forecast is looking good. Had a rest today so I'm  ready to go.

Mar 25, 2014

From Mister Dirk ...

Kid's Classic Swim Shorts !

The link is:

(Apparently, they think surf mat are boards...or mat riding is silly...or these kids are bored silly.)

Mar 24, 2014

Greenough Drift Turns ...

As a follow up to Mister Dirk's tip on tail slide cutbacks, here are two shots of Greenough executing tail drift turns on Converse Hodgman mats back in the 60's.

The first is a simple directional adjustment on a bumpy wave on Maui, the second a nice turn-around coming out of a cut back at Rincon.

From ACE ...


Buenos Dias from Ecuador. 3 months go by fast. Been giving the mat a lot of use. Here are some pics.


Mar 23, 2014

From Bretto ...

Hi Paul

Having fun in the jungle, found a few great spots . Haven't got much internet here so I hope this email gets to you. 
Still had waves everyday, rights and lefts, the swell hasn't been too big so its been perfect. 
Selamat tinggal

Mar 22, 2014

Mat Riding Tips From The Pros ..

This one is from Mister Dirk, of Santa Barbara, CA...

Best referred to as a "tail slide cut back," it's effective in smaller, weaker waves.

If the rider is running out of wall, they can swing the tail around underneath them and head back into the white water almost immediately. With a little practice, it's easy to execute!

Mar 17, 2014

From Dennis ...

Hi Paul,
A film of our day at Mablethorpe, on the east coast of the UK. I was riding the Fatty and, as always, it's fun, fun, fun!

Keep up the good work,

Mar 15, 2014

From Peter ...

Here’s me doing an air drop at a local peak. I gotta say that Lotus is a really fun mat. Thanks for making it and I’m glad I bought it!

Mar 14, 2014

Bretto In Bali ...

Hi Paul,

Having a great time here. Surfed everyday at least once sometimes twice. The first couple of days was huge at the main break. Warmed up by surfing a sheltered left you may have seen on the surf report, then moving down to what I call the death peak. Almost drowned one day the waves had 10 - 12 foot backs, couldn't tell you face height as I didn't make it down the face!

Half an hour swim to retrieve the L7, meanwhile diving under thumping sets, glad I did a lot of body surfing before I came over. If you got caught, it was impossible to hang on to the mat so I did a fair bit of swimming. The last few days however have been just perfect with half a mile rides. After a dozen waves you've paddled for miles!

Off to the outer islands tomorrow to find some good mat waves.

Selamat tinggal. 

Cool Bud Shank Profile ...

Noted jazz musician Bud Shank, who scored two of Bruce Brown's early surf films, is covered
in a recent Jazz Profiles entry.

Bruce Brown and his Bud Shank scored films -- Slippery When Wet and Barefoot Adventure -- get several mentions...including the surprising trivia that the Barefoot Adventure theme became Shank's closest thing to a hit.

Mar 13, 2014

On Loan From The Louvre ...

Jonathan Hess / Recreation of Fatal Air Drop / Ballpoint Pen On Cardboard / March 2014

Mar 11, 2014

Instagram Addy ...

We just changed our Instagram address to:

34 followers and counting...

Mar 10, 2014

From Surf Sister ...

It has begun. Woot!!
4GF is now officially on Instagram.

From Larry ...

Came across this in "Tracks" #45.  June, 1974. Thought of your great contributions...


Mar 9, 2014

Bretto: Raw

Hi Paul,

Brett asked me to send a link from a daily surf video surf report. I hope you will see it today in case its only up for a short time. He's been surfing on his first day. It may take a awhile to see Bretto on a wave as its raw footage.

I love my new standard and lotus customs. The rides have been so long, fast and fun.

regards michelle xo

Mar 7, 2014

From Kim ...

G'Day Paul,

Here's a few shots of the Omni being put to good fun use.

My son got one of me getting out of the water at Currumbin (Gold Coast Qld) before taking off with it himself. I got a couple of him in the water. He remarked about one or two of his rides "taking off" like a scalded cat. This day it was about 3 or so feet, 5 in the bigger sets. Many good times to come I think!

Kim Wirth

Mar 6, 2014

Liquid Salt 2.0 Kickstarter

Glenn over at Liquid Salt is having a crack at an upgraded web page...well worth a contribution!

Click on the link, and check out the vid....

Mar 5, 2014

From Steve ...

Hey Paul
I have been re-studying all your old matting tips lately. It reminds me of that golf cartoon with the guy about to swing, thinking about 101 things, one thought which is 'think about nothing'. This inspired me to plagiarise this concept for an equivalent picture for matting. See attached.

Mar 4, 2014

From Maria ...

Mister Dirk having some fun after the recent rains ...

From Michael ...



A couple of pictures going out and one of the wave's I really would have liked to have been on(instead of scrambling for the lip!), great day, water getting cool, hope all is well, the very best,


From OC Hipster Matt P ...

Hi Paul,

Paparazzi caught me on the beach with the 5th Gear Flyer. It was huge this day and I didnt catch any waves. I was able to duckdive some DOH monster mush and get out there but didnt have the leg power to catch one...

peace -matt

Mar 3, 2014

From Bruce ...

Blue West, age 11, on a crystal Carmel day.

Mar 1, 2014

From Michelle ...



Bretto in action !!!