Oct 23, 2009
A quick note to hyperventilate about the surf! It was stellar this morning -- glassy, consistent, growing, no crowd. Young Brian was there on his 4GF and we had a wonderful time trading notes and tips. I gave him a few positioning tips and he seemed to really improve. He's a very good water spirit already.
As I changed to leave, I watched him milk a really long one -- farther than any surfer could go -- and then we exchanged farewells as he walked back up the point. I told him that I was going to write to you and he said, "Tell him I'm pumped!"
Now I've got to work my buns off to catch up...probably won't get wet again until Monday.
Oct 7, 2009
Oct 5, 2009
Today (5 October) we had the best surf of the year in the Netherlands! This weekend we had a storm. On Monday it went offshore with a light wind. The waves were the best of 2009! (For Dutch waves).
The quality of the pictures are not very good. I've mat surfed for about 5 hours and had really good rides! Tonight I will sleep like a little boy. Hope everything is fine with you.
Speak to you soon.
Oct 2, 2009
Hope everything is fine and that you are having a very nice day.
I received my Fatty about 3 or 4 weeks ago and I have been having a blast, my first surf was in a 3-4'(face) slab reef spot, and the mat surfed just fine. I tried it for the first time on tubular waves and got really barrelled on one! I have been surfing the mat ever since about 3-5 times a week on different conditions ranging from knee high glassy slides to 5-6' face barrels to 6' face points (I haven't touched any other surf craft). I now understand that riding a mat is an ever changing, learning experience that I guess will never end.
I guess I am probably pushing the limits of the Fatty design as controlling the mat was a bit of a struggle in the 6'- 8' face open water break this afternoon. Still, I had a blast drawing some clean and fast carves on the waves I did manage to control the mat on.
Thank you very much for building this mat for me, without it I wouldn't be having such a blast with this mat experience! I can assure you that you now have a client in Puerto Rico that will be ordering mats and if possible some other alternative surfcrafts for many years to come!
(Attached are some pictures I took before this morning's session...)