Aug 31, 2012
Tom In Brazil!
Some snapshots from Camburi today, just so you get a slight feel for the beach scene here.
Had some very nice slides yesterday and today until my legs started cramping - sometimes overhead (standing) beachbreak and some nice shoulders from a defined take-off zone.
I had my best and longest mat-rides today, so far, in large stuff and connecting outside and inside sections.
Went "over-the-falls" big time yesterday and got caught inside often, but with the mat I´m not afraid of hitting anything (except the bottom).
Even showed the guy in the local surfshop some mat-links (after a sale), after when local guy who´d casually dropped in on me showed up... They saw the speed, but if you´re not "standing up", you´re not a "real man", more like a freak, I guess.
No problem with that and the locals do respect other waveriders here.
I´ve always found a wave and stoke has surpassed ego and testosterone all over the world, so far.
Have a good Labor Day weekend.