Aug 31, 2012

Tom In Brazil!

Hey Paul,

Some snapshots from Camburi today, just so you get a slight feel for the beach scene here.

Had some very nice slides yesterday and today until my legs started cramping - sometimes overhead (standing) beachbreak and some nice shoulders from a defined take-off zone.

I had my best and longest mat-rides today, so far, in large stuff and connecting outside and inside sections.

Went "over-the-falls" big time yesterday and got caught inside often, but with the mat I´m not afraid of hitting anything (except the bottom).

Even showed the guy in the local surfshop some mat-links (after a sale), after when local guy who´d casually dropped in on me showed up... They saw the speed, but if you´re not "standing up", you´re not a "real man", more like a freak, I guess.

No problem with that and the locals do respect other waveriders here.
I´ve always found a wave and stoke has surpassed ego and testosterone all over the world, so far.

Have a good Labor Day weekend.


1 comment:

Piskian said...

Funny,wherever prone's seen as "female" and "passive",the males are generally insecure and uncertain.Japan,or Oz,or USA(ha!)for example.
Viva "la" revolution....