Mar 14, 2014
Bretto In Bali ...
Having a great time here. Surfed everyday at least once sometimes twice. The first couple of days was huge at the main break. Warmed up by surfing a sheltered left you may have seen on the surf report, then moving down to what I call the death peak. Almost drowned one day the waves had 10 - 12 foot backs, couldn't tell you face height as I didn't make it down the face!
Half an hour swim to retrieve the L7, meanwhile diving under thumping sets, glad I did a lot of body surfing before I came over. If you got caught, it was impossible to hang on to the mat so I did a fair bit of swimming. The last few days however have been just perfect with half a mile rides. After a dozen waves you've paddled for miles!
Off to the outer islands tomorrow to find some good mat waves.