Mar 14, 2014

Bretto In Bali ...

Hi Paul,

Having a great time here. Surfed everyday at least once sometimes twice. The first couple of days was huge at the main break. Warmed up by surfing a sheltered left you may have seen on the surf report, then moving down to what I call the death peak. Almost drowned one day the waves had 10 - 12 foot backs, couldn't tell you face height as I didn't make it down the face!

Half an hour swim to retrieve the L7, meanwhile diving under thumping sets, glad I did a lot of body surfing before I came over. If you got caught, it was impossible to hang on to the mat so I did a fair bit of swimming. The last few days however have been just perfect with half a mile rides. After a dozen waves you've paddled for miles!

Off to the outer islands tomorrow to find some good mat waves.

Selamat tinggal. 


pranaglider said...

EPIC mat wave!

Bagofwind said...

Let me know next time you head to Bali. A Southeast Asia mat meet could be a laugh!

- Neil in Singapore

Anonymous said...

I will be in bali on tuesday.

Bagofwind said...

Just missed you. I was there over the weekend. Hopefully the swell picks back up for you.
- Neil