Oct 15, 2012
Surfing fantastic waves everyday, having a great time. It took me a few surfs to dial in the inflation levels, the waves are so sucky and powerful Im riding between number 7 and a slack 90, which is a lot tighter than I'd ride at home.
A few of the "old timers" are blown out that the guy on the "surfoplane" is getting some smokers.
Its been between 3 and 8 feet the whole time and after a three hour session this morning with only half a dozen good blokes I'll admit I'm a bit surfed out. Its dropped to 5-6 feet for the next couple of days then back to 8 feet middle of next week.
I can't get any photos of the premier spot as I'm sworn to secrecy but here's a sample...