Ryman and I went out....Cold man! It’s Cold! I got stuck on the inside in some side shore current pulling me one way and a rip holding right in the impact zone on my initial paddle out! I was Hammered for 20 straight minutes, then finally got out of the impact zone and made it outside. I was spent by the time I made it out, and looked for Ryman for 15 or 20 minutes but couldn’t find him. I waited for a wave that scared me and took off. Speed! The Lotus is so Fast, before I knew it I was getting barreled down the beach on the inside and I needed to get out and look for Ryman. It was a magical/gnarly one wave session that I won’t soon forget.
This is the coldest Air and Water I’ve ever surfed and it effected me mentally and physically. I will be purchasing a 4/3 with a hood for weather like this. I’m glad I made it outside and caught one! I worked for it today for sure. Gonna try to make it out around the same time tomorrow.