Ryman and I went out....Cold man! It’s Cold! I got
stuck on the inside in some side shore current pulling me one way and a
rip holding right in the impact zone on my initial paddle out! I was
Hammered for 20 straight minutes, then finally got out of the impact
zone and made it outside. I was spent by the time I made it out, and
looked for Ryman for 15 or 20 minutes but couldn’t find him. I waited
for a wave that scared me and took off. Speed! The Lotus is so Fast,
before I knew it I was getting barreled down the beach on the inside and
I needed to get out and look for Ryman. It was a magical/gnarly one
wave session that I won’t soon forget.
This is
the coldest Air and Water I’ve ever surfed and it effected me mentally
and physically. I will be purchasing a 4/3 with a hood for weather like
this. I’m glad I made it outside and caught one! I worked for it today
for sure. Gonna try to make it out around the same time tomorrow.
Super Stoked,
Rob
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