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Hi Paul,
A quick note to hyperventilate about the surf! It was stellar this morning -- glassy, consistent, growing, no crowd. Young Brian was there on his 4GF and we had a wonderful time trading notes and tips. I gave him a few positioning tips and he seemed to really improve. He's a very good water spirit already.
As I changed to leave, I watched him milk a really long one -- farther than any surfer could go -- and then we exchanged farewells as he walked back up the point. I told him that I was going to write to you and he said, "Tell him I'm pumped!"
Now I've got to work my buns off to catch up...probably won't get wet again until Monday.
Best,
Dirk