Hi Paul,
A quick note to hyperventilate about the surf! It was stellar this morning -- glassy, consistent, growing, no crowd. Young Brian was there on his 4GF and we had a wonderful time trading notes and tips. I gave him a few positioning tips and he seemed to really improve. He's a very good water spirit already.
As I changed to leave, I watched him milk a really long one -- farther than any surfer could go -- and then we exchanged farewells as he walked back up the point. I told him that I was going to write to you and he said, "Tell him I'm pumped!"
Now I've got to work my buns off to catch up...probably won't get wet again until Monday.
Best,
Dirk
2 comments:
da con? I had an epic sesh at 40th st newport a couple days ago on my 4GF... main peak left was ALL mine for a few hours...
my bro watched me get a 5 second barrel and a little air...
A blogworthy session indeed! Just wanted to add that I don't intend to sound patronising to Brian -- I call him "young Brian" because I'm such an old coot. He's actually a really experienced waterman in his early prime. I can't wait to see where he goes on the mat this winter!
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