Hi Paul,
As I expected, a short period swell hit our shores on Sunday with a little wind, but still good 3 to 4 foot waves to share with some friends. So I took my new Standard Mat to a remote pointbreak and started to apply a little "surfmat theory", to see if things work...
To my surprise, it only took 3 waves, or less, to adjust my positioning while paddling or surfing. I started to feel the subtelties of hand and fin positioning, too, while bottom-turning and soon I was flying down the line, eating all the flat spots of the wave and connected all the sections through the shorebreak. There were plenty of hollow sections on the waves, but the wind was killing every single cover up attempt...but I've already felt that Mr. Standard likes to put me right where I should be!!
I now have a little rash on my chin...and a huge smile on my face!
I guess you know why??!!
Thanks Paul
Best wishes
Denis
Chateau d'Olonne
France
3 comments:
C'est si bon!
Curse you Red Baron!! ;-)
Due to some recent 'chest discomfort' and subsequent testing revealing a blocked coronary artery, I'm under orders to stop surfing until after surgery in a couple of weeks.8-(
Your photo is not helping my will power. (I did try a 2-3 ft surf recently and experienced the same chesty feeling after one wave).
whoops! I meant to reply to Jaimie's photo.
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