I had a blast yesterday. The Polara and the Fatty performed well! It wasn't exactly what I expected from the forecast, but it didn't matter, my face hurts from smiling! I surfed for 5 hours and I am super sore today!
It was a strange swell as it often is here. I think I ran out of gas before I figured it out, but man was it fun trying! I wasn't able to connect from the outside to the inside, but I did catch some amazing closeout barrels! I can still see the face heaving over me and the door slamming shut as if it's in slow motion. I dropped in a little too low a few times and got caught by the lip horizontally, each time I was driven to the ocean floor and pinned for a few seconds. It was like being body slammed by a giant, and frankly I enjoyed it ;)!
Thank you for building a surf craft I can experience such things on. The day was full of smiles, friends, and Joy. I couldn't have asked for a better Saturday powered by 4GF!
I was so excited I forgot the GoPro in the car :( and didn't remember it until I was exhausted. I've got all the memories though and they will last a lifetime!
This was the only photo Chris got from yesterday.
I need to plan a trip to a point break soon! Any recommendations?
Super Stoked,
Rob
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Bud
3 comments:
Excellent composition in the first shot- love the centered symmetry.
Ditto on the photo; love that old pulled back perspective so you can really see what is going on. Hate to be a hater but I think it beats the heck out of almost anything I have seen from a GoPro
Chris is a magician with his camera, he grabs some great shots!
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