Howdy Paul
I had John Adkins
write to me, he is coming back for a visit again and bringing mats with
him as well as kneeboards, should be here in a months time, so just in
time for the true cold winter swells to arrive.
I
meant to slip this edit to you last post, its from the morning that
Neal filmed , you can really see how hard his crap hips have affected
him just walking, but he is all good and in recovery from having 2 new
hip joints installed, he sounded in good spirits when I spoke to him
this morning, a week at rehab, then back home to recover...we will have
our own camera man for a few weeks till he is back in.
This
was our last together before his operation, this break is called the
Bogey Hole, such a fun quirky right hander, when its really big you can
take off from around the point ( it called Kamakazi's) with a big bowl
section before wrapping back into the bogey hole . Its so much fun on
mats and the trick is to take off right next to the wall, ride the foam
wall, then pull into the bowl section over the rock ledge and then onto
the reform which takes you onto the beach.
I
love my kneeboards but have been rocking on these little soft top
boards, so much flex in them, riding boards 4'6" you learn rail control
is totally different to surfing a standard fibreglass kneeboard...this
was our 2nd surf after riding mats most of the morning.
adam
1 comment:
Get Well Neal! Make sure the other SCUMM's do lots of camera work for you as payback! You're gonna love your new hips! [Hmmm...... sounds like a plastic surgery ad.] Get the Arnold Schwarzenegger models, the chicks dig them!
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