Hey Paul,
Here's a clip from Lemoore the other day.
Like I said before, its really challenging to ride a mat out there. The energy is so different from the ocean, its hard to hold a good line. You can see in the footage, the wave energy is keeping me at the bottom of the wave, and its really easy to get behind the curl.
I rode the Omni you made me, felt like that was the right mat to bring, being my smallest/most agile mat. Super fun, but very challenging.
Nolan
5 comments:
Ha ha looks great, although it does look challenging to hold a line
Does look fun. What level inflation were you riding at? Could be a bit more air in the bag would hold in better, give ability for a higher line.
Nice (very nice) mat surfing on a wave that just looks wrong- it seems to have offer no forward momentum, like it's breaking the whole time in one place.
Compare the ride this mat rider is getting on this small, sloping, unbroken wall:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGW3RD35XFw
That's a magnification of organic, natural energy!
I'd be curious to hear a more detailed report from Nolan on how that wave felt to ride.
The energy is on the wrong side of the curl, IMO.
If you watch the body boarder who took off first, look as the energy in the wave as he is blasted out of the white water onto the side embankment.
Hmmm, subtle commentary on modern "culture"; most everyone is obsessed with the surface, the look of things while the deeper energetics are left ignored.
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