Nice. The first says 1,000 words about catching a wave on a mat and going into riding position. The second says 1,000 words about what's it's like to be dropped in on by a longboarder in 2020 :) I've seen other videos of your mat riding and relate to loving a fast straight line on an unbroken face. Most surfcraft can cut back and rollercoaster in similar ways in the pocket. Seems like only a mat move down the line in that unique way, and it's SO addictive.
I remember an uncrowded moment at a long point break, catching a wave from the outside and jamming down the line... About halfway through a guy on a shortboard began paddling for it in front of me, straining and grunting as they do. I caught up to him, said "Hello" at conversational volume, and kept speeding along.
4 comments:
Nice. The first says 1,000 words about catching a wave on a mat and going into riding position.
The second says 1,000 words about what's it's like to be dropped in on by a longboarder in 2020 :)
I've seen other videos of your mat riding and relate to loving a fast straight line on an unbroken face. Most surfcraft can cut back and rollercoaster in similar ways in the pocket. Seems like only a mat move down the line in that unique way, and it's SO addictive.
The drop in is ok as it’s my daughter 🙂
Yes also when it’s someone I know it’s fun to chase and hopefully pass them🙂wp
Love it :)
I remember an uncrowded moment at a long point break, catching a wave from the outside and jamming down the line... About halfway through a guy on a shortboard began paddling for it in front of me, straining and grunting as they do. I caught up to him, said "Hello" at conversational volume, and kept speeding along.
I didn't look back to see if he caught it.
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